Got Nature? Blog

Posted on May 28th, 2025 in Forestry, How To, Wildlife | No Comments »

The first page of the Thinning Native Warm-Season Grasses publication.Discover the importance of thinning dense native warm-season grasses in conservation plantings to improve diversity. This guide explains methods to reduce tall native warm-season grasses to improve habitat for wildlife. Essential reading for conservationists and land managers interested in grassland ecosystems.

Learn when and how to thin these grasses effectively, and explore strategies that balance ecological health with long-term land management goals: Thinning Native Warm-Season Grasses

This publication is part of a seven publication series The Managing Conservation Plantings Series which include details on how to control invasive species and other problematic plants in Conservation Reserve Program (CRP) plantings and native warm-season grass and wildflower conservation plantings.

Publications in this series include:

Resources:
Deer Impact Toolbox & Grassland Management, Purdue Extension Pond and Wildlife Management
Pond and Wildlife Management, Purdue Extension
Forestry for the Birds Virtual Tour and Pocket Guide, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Frost Seeding to Establish Wildlife Food Plots and Native Grass and Forb Plantings – Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube channel
Wildlife Habitat Hint: Tips for Evaluating a First Year Native Grass and Forb Plantings, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Drone Seeding Native Grasses and Forbs: Project Overview & Drone Setup, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube channel
Ask an Expert: Wildlife Food Plots, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Handling Harvested Game: Episode 1, Field Dressing, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Managing Your Woods for White-Tailed Deer, The Education Store
Forest Improvement Handbook, The Education Store
Forest Management for Reptiles and Amphibians: A Technical Guide for the Midwest, The Education Store
A Template for Your Wildlife Habitat Management Plan, The Education Store
Woodland Stewardship for Landowners, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube channel
Nature of Teaching Unit 1: Animal Diversity and Tracking, The Education Store
Nature of Teaching, Purdue College of Agriculture
Invasive Species Playlist, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Report Invasive, Purdue Extension
Subscribe Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources YouTube Channel

Jarred Brooke, Wildlife Extension Specialist
Purdue Department of Forestry and Natural Resources


Norway maple tree.

Figure 1. Norway maple is an invasive species that can resemble black and sugar maple. Photo by Purdue Arboretum.

Purdue Landscape Report: These three maples have somewhat similar-looking leaves. On the surface, you may think this is simply an academic exercise. But if you care about invasive plants and local ecology, this distinction is an important one.

Norway maple is an invasive tree species, while sugar and black maples are native tree species (sometimes called hard maples). Sugar and black maples are even more beloved for their gift of delicious sugary sap that can be made into maple syrup and similar products. They also make great shade trees. Note that there are other native and non-native maple species.

One way to distinguish between Norway (Acer platanoides), sugar (Acer saccharum), and black (Acer nigrum) maples is to count the number of lobes on the leaves. Lobes are large areas of the leaf that stick out, like an ear lobe, although that is not the clearest analogy. Norway maples typically have 5-7 lobes (commonly 7), sugar maples typically have 5, and black maples typically have 3-5. Black maple’s bottom two lobes are so much less prominent than sugar maple that it often looks like 3 main lobes. Additionally, black maple leaves droop on the sides, almost like they are starting to wilt from lack of water.

Another way to distinguish Norway maples from native maples (sugar and black) is to look at the winged seeds, called samaras. Children may call these “helicopters,” as they twirl on their way to the ground. The Norway maple has paired samaras arranged like a handlebar mustache. Sugar and black maple samara pairs look more like a Fu Manchu mustache, pointing downward rather than the near horizontal arrangement of Norway maple samaras.

Black maple leaf with fall yellow color.

Figure 2c. Black maple leaf. Photo by Purdue Arboretum.

Green sugar maple leaf.

Figure 2b. Sugar maple leaf. Photo by Purdue Arboretum.

Green Norway maple leaf.

Figure 2a. Norway maple leaf. Photo by Purdue Arboretum.

A third way to distinguish Norway maples from native maples is to snap off the long leaf stem (petiole). Norway maples have a milky latex sap that exudes if you squeeze or pinch a petiole, while native maples have clear sap.

There are a few other identification nuances between these species. For example, black maples have stipules (leaf-like growths) at the base of their petioles (absent on sugar maple). They also have pubescence or hairiness on the underside of the leaves. Norway maple has hairs in the axils of leaf veins. Norway maple’s leaves are generally broader than long. Other differences may be seen in the bark, twigs, buds, and fall coloring.

Although Norway maple is an invasive species, it has been a long-time landscaping favorite of homeowners, especially cultivars like ‘Crimson King’ that retain their deep red color all year. This attribute has made Norway maple a popular choice because few other options exist to offer that color feature for the landscape. Other varieties or cultivars exhibit the normal green leaf color. Native to northern Europe, the tree was introduced in America in the late 1700s. George Washington reportedly purchased two trees in 1792 to plant at Mount Vernon.

For full article: Distinguishing Between Norway, Sugar, and Black Maples, Purdue Landscape Report.

Resources:
ReportINvasive, Purdue College of Agriculture
What are Invasive Species and Why Should I Care?, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources
Large Spots on Maple Leaves that Look Like Tar, Purdue Extension News
Find an Arborist, International Society of Arboriculture
Fifty Common Trees of Indiana
An Introduction to Trees of Indiana
Native Trees of the Midwest, The Education Store
Shrubs and Woody Vines of Indiana and the Midwest, The Education Store
Tree Installation: Process and Practices, The Education Store
Planting Your Tree Part 1: Choosing Your Tree, Video, Purdue Extension – Forestry & Natural Resource (FNR) YouTube Channel
Investing in Indiana Woodlands, The Education Store
Forest Improvement Handbook, The Education Store
ID That Tree, Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube playlist
Purdue Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory

John E. Woodmansee, Extension Educator – Agriculture and Natural Resources (ANR)
Purdue Extension – Whitely County


Posted on May 6th, 2025 in How To, Urban Forestry | No Comments »

Parts of a tree to inspect diagram.Trees are lost every year from storm-related events. Major damage to parts of the tree or even the entire tree can result from high winds, snow and ice. Historic, specimen and significant trees provide value to the landscape and the community, and these trees can become aesthetic, financial and social losses in storms. In addition to physical damage or loss, risk and liability can become a concern to people and the surrounding property. Seasonal storms can cause extensive damage depending on timing and intensity. Deciding what to do with damaged trees is an important process.

Over time, trees swaying in the wind develop extra strength to withstand directional forces. If conditions are consistent, trees will initiate changes in their development to compensate for these loading patterns. They are biologically engineered to adjust to external loading, under normal conditions. This fiber strength can minimize the impact of external forces, unless they are excessive, such as during a storm. Typically, these loads come from wind. However, ice and snow also can cause damage from excessive weight on branches.

Typical weather events are not an issue for trees. They are engineered to withstand normal conditions. However, some storms can exert extreme forces, resulting in injuries of varying degrees. It is at this point that a tree owner or manager must make an informed decision based on the extent of the damage. The assistance of a trained arborist can help determine if a tree can be saved from sustained injuries, or if it requires removal

The response to storm damage should be based primarily on two concepts: risk and sustainability. If the tree is an imminent or likely danger to people, property or activities, the decision leaves little room for options. However, if the residual risk from the damage is determined to be of an acceptable level and the injury to the tree not life- threatening, mitigation may be possible to save the tree and reduce the danger.

There are several types of tree damage that occur from violent weather. Each has its own specific assessment considerations. All parts of the tree should be inspected during a post-storm assessment.

Uprooted tree

Excessive winds uproot large trees with weak root systems

Some common damage found includes:
Wind Throw
The entire tree is “pushed over” by high winds. The loading forces on the aerial tree portions are too great for the developed root system. Previous harm from activities such as construction damage, lack of maintenance and attacks from pests predisposes the tree to damage with poor anchorage or health. Inspect the root plate of each tree on a regular basis to determine if there are any root health issues. Look for fungal fruiting bodies, exposed roots, lifting or other damage. Larger or more mature trees that have been completely uprooted are typically not salvageable

Tree trunk that is half-split (snapped).

Tree trunks fail at their weakest points, causing them to snap or
break.

Stem Failure
Trees will fail at their weakest point. Typically, failure is caused by the combination of a defect and external forces. Old injury sites or wounds are common on tree trunks, and these damaged areas can lead to tree failure under excessive loads. Also, trees newly exposed to prevailing winds from development or removal can be at greater risk. Trunks can snap or buckle if the tree is unable to withstand the wind forces. Damage from stem failure usually cannot be repaired. Trees with major defects on the trunk should be examined carefully to determine the degree of risk for that location. Look for decayed areas, cavities, nesting holes and fungal fruiting bodies for indicators. The extent and location of these defects will help the arborist determine the potential for failure.

Crown Twist
The tree canopy contains an array of leaves, twigs and branches that make up the crown portion of the tree.

Cracks on a tree trunk.

Winds causing a twist of the trunk can leave dangerous splits and
cracks.

Many times, the crown can have an uneven geometry from competition or poor pruning, leaving an unequal appearance. The result of this situation in high winds can be trouble. Uneven wind loading on the lopsided crown produces a damaging twist on major branches and the stem. This twisting causes torsional stress, much like twisting a rope backwards, resulting in splits and cracking. This is especially damaging around old wounds or other defects, which can lead to failure. Close investigation is necessary to spot these often-subtle cracks. Often this damage can be mitigated in branches; however, take caution with damaged trunks.

Root Failure
Stability and anchorage are important roles of the root system for keeping a tree upright.

Leaning tree trunk

Root failure often leaves trees leaning. Look for exposed roots after
high wind storms.

Both the structural, woody roots and the fine absorbing roots create an effective network of strength to withstand wind-loading forces. As the tree becomes larger, increased stress is put on the roots to maintain stability.

Roots that are restricted, diseased or damaged can cause trees to lean and fall. Careful examination of the root plate is needed to determine if anchorage is compromised. Look for heaving soil and roots around the tree trunk, which can present a high-risk situation. The presence of pulled or broken roots, as well as any mushroom development around the root system, also can be indicators of defects in the roots. Depending on the age, size and degree of exposure, mitigation may be possible. Young trees with healthy roots systems can be up righted and staked or guyed with success. However, if more than 30 percent of the roots are exposed, removal may be the better option.

Tree branch with shear plane cracks.

Damage to branches, such as shear plane cracks, should be
removed by proper pruning.

Branch Failure
Tree branches are easy victims of loading forces. Whether it is axial loading from snow or ice accretion or lateral, side loading from wind, damage is frequent. Because branches can sometimes be poorly attached to the main stems, they can easily experience injury. However, this structural arrangement allows the branches to be flexible and disposable, and easily shed in times of stress to help dampen the impact of wind, minimizing damage to the larger, structural branches.

Poor architecture and development, such as codominant stems and included bark in branch junctions, predisposes branches to failure and often are the first to experience damage. Branch failure can be easily repaired and not lethal to the tree unless more than half the crown has been destroyed. However, they can create high-risk situations in the wrong places. Learn to recognize dead, broken, hanging limbs or other signs of damage to reduce risk. Often twisted and cracked branches are difficult to see and may need closer inspection by an arborist to identify. Be sure to use pruning best practices when correcting damage in the crown.

There are other forms of damage, such as lightning damage, which can be detrimental and even lethal to trees. A certified arborist or qualified consulting arborist can help provide a prognosis.

Storm Damage Prevention
It is impossible to protect a tree from storms or prevent damage from weather events. However, there are some actions that can minimize injury to trees.

The best preparation begins when trees are young or newly planted. Do not stake or guy trees unless absolutely necessary. This prevents development of internal adjustments to wind with response wood growth. Let the tree adjust to local conditions by allowing natural movement.

Functional pruning helps trees form a healthy, more wind-resistant crown. Inspection and corrective pruning of newly planted trees produces a stronger structure. Eliminate codominant stems by pruning these weak- forked branches. Choose a good, strong central leader for young trees. This will prevent losing the whole crown in the future. Choose branches with even spacing, radially around the tree for balance and symmetry.

Inspect trees for broken, dying, diseased and dead branches each year. Also, conduct a visual assessment after a storm event. Look for crossing branches, which lead to problems where rubbing produces damage and decay. Always favor branches with a “U” shape or greater than 45° angle, which forms an optimal connection. These branches will have fewer tendencies to split or break from wind or ice loads. Eliminate branches with bark inclusion and tight or narrow branch junctions.

Image of topped trees in a street.

Tree topping is an unhealthy practice.

Branch training is essential for sustainable, long-term tree plantings.

Under no circumstances should a tree be “topped” to prevent wind or ice damage. Topped trees produce many small, poorly attached sprouts and as they grow, the canopy weight and density is actually increased. In addition, topped branches often develop decay and diseased stems, which further weakens the tree and makes the branches more susceptible to breakage. Topping may seem to make a tree safer, but it actually increases the potential for storm damage with unhealthy epicormic sprouting and additional decay in the stems.

Tree with codominant stems

Codominant stems on this maple, as well as included bark, are more
prone to splitting

When mature trees develop unequal crowns, prune to improve symmetry. However, remember pruning best practices and never remove more than 30 percent of the crown at one time. It may take several years for crown restoration. Good pruning techniques also promote faster healing of the cuts.

Do not try to “wind-proof” the tree by thinning out branches. Trees rely on proper branching habits and placement to dampen the wind energy affecting them. Excessive and unnecessary pruning creates wounds and additional stress on tree health. Allow the tree to develop fully and naturally by pruning only when needed. However, proper health care includes pruning for vigor. This includes removing dead, dying or diseased branches, poor branch attachments, crossing branches and narrow branch angles. After this functional pruning, some thinning is achieved to reduce drag or sail in the canopy.

A healthy tree is the best defense to any challenge the tree may face in its lifetime. Appropriate watering and fertilization improves root growth and structure, making the tree more stable. Monitor for pest problems and treat when needed to prevent insects and diseases from weakening tree health. Remove diseased branches, as needed, to minimize spread and potential damage.

Image of tree trunk and branches.

This tree has good branch structure with strong attachments.

Risk Assessment
Following a severe storm event, not all trees will need to be pruned or removed, and many will need little or no treatment. After identifying the type of damage, risk assessment is the priority. One of the more critical tasks for the property owner is determining an acceptable level of risk. It is the responsibility of a tree owner or manager to maintain and manage their trees to protect the safety of others. This usually requires assistance from a well-qualified arborist.

Post-Storm Response

  • Safety first! Stay clear and look for dangerous hanging limbs, broken branches and other failures before beginning cleanup or inspections. Keep others clear of the areas beneath and around damaged trees. Be alert for power lines that could be involved with damaged trees. All utility lines should be considered energized and dangerous.
  • Tree diagram to help with pruning.

    Functional pruning creates a healthier tree that is less prone to
    damage from ice and wind.

    Damage assessment is the next step. Review the affected tree or trees to determine the level of injury. Some trees may not require any action and can recover on their own. The challenging part of the assessment is deciding which trees can be pruned properly to a healthy state and which trees should be removed. Many factors are involved in the decision, and damage may be hidden or difficult to determine. It is critical to get a professional arborist with credentials to conduct the assessment and the work required to mitigate the injured parts of the tree.

  • Match skills with the situation when it comes to reparation of damages and restoration. Be able to recognize when tree damage requires advanced training and is best handled by the arborist. Tree work is dangerous and the hazards are compounded when storm damage is involved. Leaning trees, broken and pinned branches, as well as utility lines, can create life-threatening situations.
  • Basic cleanup can be helpful in the post-storm response process. Removing downed branches and limbs, and performing basic pruning on smaller, injured trees, can help speed recovery from the event. This also provides for a better evaluation of the site and the larger affected trees.

Hire a Certified Arborist
One key to dealing with the challenges of storm damage is to consult a qualified tree service. Finding a qualified tree care professional is important protection for the property owner. Sometimes less credible companies follow storms to take advantage of a bad situation. Knowing how to hire a reputable arborist can protect a property owner from being victimized. A professionally trained arborist can determine if a tree can be saved. Even if the tree must be removed, safety and training are needed to prevent additional damage or injury from the removal. An International Society of Arboriculture Certified Arborist can help save a tree or improve the risk situations that follow storms. Also, choosing an accredited company brings the highest level of standards for client satisfaction and safety.

A list of qualified arborists can be obtained by contacting the following sources:

  • International Society of Arboriculture website.
    https://www.isa-arbor.com/
  • Tree Care Industry Association website.
    https://www.tcia.org/

For more information contact: Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources Office, fnrextension@purdue.edu, 765-494- 3590.

Resources:
Find an Arborist video, Trees are Good-International Society of Arboriculture (ISA)
Caring for storm-damaged trees/How to Acidify Soil in the Yard – In the Grow, Purdue Extension
Tree Risk Management – Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Why Is My Tree Dying? – Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR)
Mechanical Damage to Trees: Mowing and Maintenance Equipment – Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Spring Storms Are Coming: How to Reduce Tree Damage and Risk – Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Trees and Electric Lines – The Education Store
Planting Your Tree Part 1: Choosing Your Tree, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Tree Installation: Process and Practices, The Education Store
Tree Wound and Healing, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Subscribe – Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube Channel

Lindsey Purcell, Executive Director
Indiana Arborist Association


Posted on April 23rd, 2025 in How To, Wildlife | No Comments »

I seem to be finding Kirtland’s snakes as I am cleaning my gardens. There seems to be an increase of grubs, beetles and worms, but I have not seen the small lizards yet. We have an abundance of chipmunks. Is there something I can do to discourage the snakes from taking up residency in my yard?

Many people have questions about snakes, and this post addresses the two most common – what is it and what can I do? The answer to the latter is, in part, related to the first, so I’ll address that one first. Indiana is home to a diversity of snake species. Identifying snakes to species can be tricky. First, geographic location often can easily differentiate among similar species or subspecies. Check the distribution map of the species in question and that of similar species. This may not resolve all issues since the distribution of similar species often overlap, distribution maps are not 100 percent accurate (i.e., they are a “best guess”) and some species and subspecies share similar characteristics where their ranges overlap. Second, scale configuration and appearance differs among some groups of species. For snakes, the texture of the body scales (keeled or smooth) or the presence/absence of a divided anal plate (the large scale that covers the cloacal opening) are key. Finally, physical characteristics including size, color and pattern can be used. For some species, conclusive identification is easier with the specimen in hand, although handling venomous species (which are rare in Indiana) is not recommended. With practice, one can become quite adept at identifying all of them.

DeKay's Brownsnake - This species is a small chestnut to dark brown snake averaging 25-30 centimeters in length. The belly is cream to pink. It has two rows of dark spots along the back that fade toward the tail. Dark bars may connect the dorsal spots, giving the impression of a ladder-like pattern. The area within this pattern is usually lighter in color than the sides, often giving the impression of a central stripe.

DeKay’s Brownsnake – This species is a small chestnut to dark brown snake averaging 25-30 centimeters in length. The belly is cream to pink. It has two rows of dark spots along the back that fade toward the tail. Dark bars may connect the dorsal spots, giving the impression of a ladder-like pattern. The area within this pattern is usually lighter in color than the sides, often giving the impression of a central stripe.

Kirtland’s snakes referenced in the homeowner’s question are endangered in Indiana. They are generally found near or along the margins of water bodies, but they can also be found in some urban areas on occasion. Due to these facts and since Kirtland’s snakes are generally quite secretive in behavior, this homeowner’s garden visitors are likely another species. Common garden visitors in Indiana include DeKay’s Brown snake (pictured above) or Eastern Gartersnake. Red-bellied Snakes (pictured below) have a pinkish-red belly similar to Kirtland’s snake. They are more of a woodland species, but it could be a possibility. All of these snakes can eat slugs and other garden pests.

Is there something homeowners can do to discourage snakes from taking up residency in their yards and around their homes? There really is no foolproof method to discourage snakes from utilizing a property. Reducing mulch layer thickness; removing brush piles, rock piles or other refuse; and keeping vegetation low are all steps that may help. Keep in mind that this may also reduce use of your property by wildlife you desire. There have been some repellents developed for snakes, but research results on their effectiveness have been mixed at best. In general, you should be wary of repellents that promise to keep animals out of an area. Lastly, there is plastic mesh fencing that you can purchase. Fencing can be used to exclude animals from small areas – it is generally cost-prohibitive for larger areas, and I am not aware of studies that test the effectiveness of fencing for snakes. Snake fencing is generally designed to exclude larger venomous snakes as opposed to the typical garden species that can be quite small. Snakes can also get stuck and die in mesh fences when their head fits through but the body gets stuck. The scales “catch” the mesh when the snake attempts to back out. Mesh fencing is also susceptible to damage from trimmers and falling limbs, and rabbits and rodents can chew holes in it. Thus, regular inspection and maintenance is required to maintain its function.

The Red-bellied Snake (18-25 cm) has both a brown and gray color phase. The two black lines along the length of its back may appear similar to the dark spots along the back of the DeKay’s Brownsnake (Storeria dekayi), but lack the crossbars. The belly has a distinctive bright pink or red coloration for which the species was named. Three light blotches may be visible behind the head on the neck.

The Red-bellied Snake (18-25 cm) has both a brown and gray color phase. The two black lines along the length of its back may appear similar to the dark spots along the back of the DeKay’s Brownsnake (Storeria dekayi), but lack the crossbars. The belly has a distinctive bright pink or red coloration for which the species was named. Three light blotches may be visible behind the head on the neck.

Remember, while many folks are afraid of snakes or don’t want them around, the vast majority of species are harmless and can actually help homeowners by preying upon animals that actually are a nuisance and cause damage. Before taking any action, consider their benefits to you and how your actions affect other wildlife that call your yard home.

Resources
Snakes and Lizards of Indiana, The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s resource center
Snakes of the Central and Northeastern United States, The Education Store
Snakes of Indiana, The Education Store
Indiana Amphibian and Reptile ID Package (4 softcover books), The Education Store
Reptiles: Turtles, Snakes, and Lizards​​, Purdue Nature of Teaching Website
Ask An Expert, Playlist, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources YouTube channel
A Moment in the Wild: Eastern Hognose, Purdue Extension – FNR Video
A Moment in the Wild: Eastern Kingsnake, Purdue Extension – FNR Video
A Moment in the Wild: Racer, Purdue Extension – FNR Video

Brian MacGowan, Extension Wildlife Specialist
Department of Forestry and Natural Resources​, Purdue University


Purdue Landscape Report: April showers bring May Flowers. Many of us were taught this little rhyme to describe the weather of Spring.  April has arrived along with the beginning of the Spring storm season and damage to and from trees is a topic of concern on many minds.  Depending on the intensity of the storms and the condition of the trees, damage from high winds, heavy rainfall, and lightning can be quite severe. Cracked or broken branches, stem failure, and root failure are some of the main concerns, but also the risk and liability of damage to people and property.

Storm season is upon us. There are a number of resources from Purdue to help dealing with storm-damaged trees.

Storm season is upon us. There are a number of resources from Purdue to help dealing with storm-damaged trees.

If your tree is damaged, there are some steps to deal with the situation. First and foremost, consider the safety of yourself and others around you. Inspect the tree from a distance first, looking for the following:

  • Heaving of the ground, indicating potential root failure
  • Damage to limbs and/or the trunk of the tree
  • Hanging branches can fall to the ground, resulting in injury or death
  • Be aware of utility and power lines. Trees can become charged by coming in contact with live wires. All utility lines should be considered energized and dangerous.

If you find your trees damaged from a storm hiring an International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist to perform a risk assessment will help guide your decision of how to manage your tree. To find an arborist near you and verify credentials, use the link at Find an Arborist, Trees are Good, International Society of Arboriculture (ISA). For more information, you can also view the publication Trees and Storms, located in The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s resource center.

Subscribe and receive the newsletter: Purdue Landscape Report Newsletter.

Resources:
Find an Arborist video, Trees are Good-International Society of Arboriculture (ISA)
Trees and Storms: Understanding Damage, Risk and Recovery – Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Caring for storm-damaged trees/How to Acidify Soil in the Yard – In the Grow, Purdue Extension
Why Is My Tree Dying? – The Education Store
Tree Risk Management – The Education Store
Mechanical Damage to Trees: Mowing and Maintenance Equipment – The Education Store
Trees and Electric Lines – The Education Store
Tree Risk Management – Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Planting Your Tree, video, The Education Store
Tree Installation, The Education Store
Tree Wound and Healing, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources
Ask an Expert: Tree Selection and Planting, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR) YouTube Channel
Tree Pruning Essentials, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Subscribe – Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube Channel

Ben McCallister, Urban Forestry Specialist
Purdue Forestry & Natural Resources


Posted on April 14th, 2025 in How To, Plants, Wildlife | No Comments »

While the weather may tell you otherwise, spring is upon us. With the changing weather comes greening grass, breaking buds and sprouting plants. This plethora of fresh growth can help cure the winter blues, but it also provides wildlife with a desirable food source. Recently you may have noticed deer and other wildlife’s increased utilization of winter wheat fields and other green areas like lawns – early spring is the time you see deer in Indiana feed extensively on grass.

Emerging tulips in a landscaping bed.For homeowners, this is the time you need to scout around your home for emerging plants in your lands​caping beds. Plants that are frequently browsed by deer such as tulips or hostas need special attention, but the limited amount of green plant material can leave any plant as a potential target. Most homeowners choose a type of taste repellent to protect plants. There are several tips on how to increase the efficacy of this approach.

  1. Timing: It helps to have some foresight into when damage is likely to occur and/or the plant developmental stage(s). Unfortunately, this is usually based on past experience. Ideally, you want to time applications during these periods.  With tulips, for example, applying repellents early during sprouting, later during sprouting and during flower bud development will prevent damage during most years.
  2. Type of repellent: There are many types of taste repellents labeled for deer and other wildlife species. Most have a combination of capsaicin, putrefied egg solids and/or fatty acids of ammonium soaps. There are, of course, others with different ingredients. So which do you choose? There have been many studies that have investigated the efficacy of repellents. The bottom line – they work, but control is not 100%.
  3. Label: Failures can often result when not following the directions on the label. The label also provides safety information and what you can/can’t spray. Read and follow the label – it’s the law.
  4. Expectations: You aren’t going to solve all of your wildlife problems by spraying a few plants or even everything. If you use repellents, reapply according to label directions (every three to four weeks is usually a good rule of thumb). To increase success, you may use them as part of an integrated approach that includes exclusion, cultural practices and other approaches.

Resources
Diagnosing and Controlling Wildlife Damage, The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s rescource center
Preventing Wildlife Damage – Do You Need a Permit?, The Education Store
Wildlife Conflicts, Purdue University
New Tool for Helping Landowners to Help Declining Birds, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – Forestry & Natural Resources (FNR)
Forest Management for Reptiles and Amphibians: A Technical Guide for the Midwest, The Education Store
Ask the Expert: Hardwood Ecosystem Experiment – Birds and Salamander Research, Purdue Extension – FNR
Developing a Wildlife Habitat Management Plan, The Education Store
The Nature of Teaching, Purdue Extension
ID That Tree, Playlist, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources Youtube Channel
A Woodland Management Moment, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR Youtube Channel
Shrubs and Woody Vines of Indiana and the Midwest, Purdue University Press
Native Trees of the Midwest, Purdue University Press
Forest Improvement Handbook, The Education Store
Fifty Common Trees of Indiana, Purdue Extension – FNR
Invasive plants: impact on environment and people, The Education Store
ReportINvasive, Purdue College of Agriculture – Entomology
Cooperative Invasive Species Management Area (CISMA)
District Forester, Indiana Department of Natural Resources, 10+ acres
Find an Arborist, International Society of Arboriculture

Brian MacGowan, Extension Wildlife Specialist
Department of Forestry and Natural Resources​


Join Purdue Extension forester Lenny Farlee and wildlife specialist Brian MacGowan as they help you prepare for the holidays while keeping your family and local wildlife safe. This video discusses everything from how to choose and care for a real Christmas tree as well as what to do with it after the season and also how to make wildlife/nature-friendly decorations.

Topics Include:
– What can I do with my tree after Christmas that would benefit wildlife?
– Are artificial structures legal in Indiana lakes?
What types of items can I collect from the wild for holiday decorations?
– How do I do it in an environmentally responsible way?
– Are there some things I shouldn’t or can’t collect?
– What outdoor holiday decorations can benefit wildlife?
– How do I make it last longer?
– Can I avoid problems with non-target wildlife?

If you have any questions regarding trees, forest management, wildlife, wood products or other natural resource topics, feel free to contact us by using our Ask an Expert web page.

Resources
Selecting an Indiana-Grown Christmas Tree, The Education Store, Purdue Extension resource center
Tips for First-Time Buyers of Real Christmas Trees, The Education Store
Indiana Christmas Tree Growers Association
Purdue University Invasive Species resources
Indiana DNR Division of Fish and Wildlife for wildlife possession rules
Feed the birds with a DIY wreath, Audubon
Dan Cassens: Tips for First-Time Christmas Tree Buyers, Video, Purdue Agriculture
Dan Cassens: Starting Your Own Christmas Tree Farm, Video

Lenny Farlee, Sustaining Hardwood Extension Specialist
Purdue University Department of Forestry and Natural Resource

Brian MacGowan, Extension Wildlife Specialist
Department of Forestry & Natural Resources, Purdue University


Posted on November 26th, 2024 in Christmas Trees, Forestry, How To | 3 Comments »

Christmas tree farm with snow on evergreens.A real Christmas tree is an important part of a holiday celebration for many Hoosier households. Consumers have several choices for purchasing a real tree, including pre-cut trees at retail outlets or seasonal sales locations, choose-and-cut trees at Christmas tree farms, or even live trees that can be replanted after the holidays. Purdue Extension offers two publications that can help you select and care for your tree: Tips for First-Time Buyers of Christmas Trees provides advice and direction on how to set up and care for your tree to improve safety and enjoyment. Selecting an Indiana-Grown Christmas Tree provides details on the characteristics of different species of real Christmas trees available in Indiana, as well as care instructions for cut and live Christmas trees.

Pre-cut real Christmas trees are available at many retail outlets like garden centers, supermarkets, or seasonal sales locations. If you are looking for local choose-and-cut Christmas tree farms you can consult local media and advertising outlets or the Indiana Christmas Tree Growers Association. Some garden centers and Christmas tree farms may also offer live trees for sale.

If you are considering growing your own Christmas trees for personal use or sale, the Extension publications Growing Christmas Trees and A Choose-and-Cut Pine and Fir Christmas Tree Case Study outline economic and management considerations for growing Christmas trees.

Check out the Ask an Expert: Holidays in the Wild as the experts answer questions regarding Christmas trees along with wildlife you may see while you walk in the woods this winter. In this Ask an Expert video they share resources about picking a real Christmas tree and how to access real trees locally in Indiana as well as collecting decoration materials like cones, seed pods and nuts form the wild for crafting and decorating. They also discuss how you can provide habitat and supplemental food for wildlife using Christmas trees and wreaths before, during and after the holiday season.

Resources:
A Choose-and-Cut Pine and Fir Christmas Tree Case Study, The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s resource center
Living Christmas Trees For The Holidays and Beyond, The Education Store
Tips for First-Time Buyers of Real Christmas Trees, The Education Store
Growing Christmas Trees, The Education Store
Selecting an Indiana-Grown Christmas Tree, The Education Store
Winterize Your Trees, The Education Store
Tree Installation: Process and Practices, The Education Store
What do Treed Do in the Winter?, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR)
Forest/Timber Playlist, subscribe to Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR) YouTube Channel
Ask the Expert: Holidays in the Wild, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
ID That Tree: Balsam Fir, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
ID That Tree: Scotch Pine, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
To identify other pine trees view ID That Tree, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel

Lenny Farlee, Extension Forester
Hardwood Tree Improvement and Regeneration Center
Purdue Department of Forestry & Natural Resources


Figure 1: This crabapple tree was attacked first by fire blight and later by Botryosphaeria canker, killing the main trunk.

Figure 1: This crabapple tree was attacked first by fire blight and later by Botryosphaeria canker, killing the main trunk.

Purdue Landscape Report: Dieback and canker diseases caused by Botryosphaeria, Sphaeropsis, Diplodia and other closely related fungal pathogens are exceptionally common on woody landscape plants. This group of diseases are often referred to collectively as Botryosphaeria diseases and this article will follow that convention to discuss them as a group. Examine any mature oak tree long enough and you’re likely to find at least some stems dying due to Botryosphaeria. Check the base of dying stems of cranberry bush viburnum and you’re likely to find a Botryosphaeria canker. Look closely at sunken cracked stems and dieback on redbud and, you guessed it, more Botryosphaeria.

Botryosphaeria is opportunistic and is often seen killing individual branches that have been wounded or attacked by other diseases, providing an entry point for the fungus. (Fig 1) Stress factors like drought, freezing or defoliation due to disease or insect attack increases susceptibility to infection, and reduces plant defenses so that existing infections often move faster down the stem. However, wounds are not required for infection. In susceptible trees and shrubs, the fungus may attack the smallest twigs and later spread to larger branches where they cause cankers.

Symptoms:
Discoloration and death of leaves on individual stems may point to Botryosphaeria canker at the base of the dying stem (Fig 2). As the canker girdles a stem, the portion of the stem above the canker gradually dies. Smaller twigs with immature bark may become discolored as the pathogen spreads. Symptoms may vary depending on the plant species infected. In many cases the infection fails to completely encircle the stem, resulting in stems with half necrotic and half living stem tissue (Fig 3).

Figure 2: A viburnum hedge with dieback caused by Botryosphaeria. Leaf color may progress from yellow to red to brown as branches die.

Figure 2: A viburnum hedge with dieback caused by Botryosphaeria. Leaf color may progress from yellow to red to brown as branches die.

Figure 3: A rhododendron stem showing one-sided necrosis caused by Botryosphaeria infection. The tan to brown discoloration in the wood is typical of Botryosphaeria on many deciduous trees and shrubs.

Figure 3: A rhododendron stem showing one-sided necrosis caused by Botryosphaeria infection. The tan to brown discoloration in the wood is typical of Botryosphaeria on many deciduous trees and shrubs.

Figure 4: This Viburnum x burkwoodii stem has a large Botryosphaeria canker at the base, killing the branch above that point. After the branch was pruned out the remainder of the shrub survived.

Figure 4: This Viburnum x burkwoodii stem has a large Botryosphaeria canker at the base, killing the branch above that point. After the branch was pruned out the remainder of the shrub survived.

Botryosphaeria cankers usually cause bark to be cracked, sunken and discolored (Fig 4). Fruiting bodies of the fungus appear as pinhead-sized black specks embedded in the bark, which may be raised in small bumps covering the cankers.

Management:
Prevention of infection depends mainly upon avoiding unnecessary wounding and minimizing environmental stresses that induce susceptibility. Avoid allowing trees and shrubs, especially those recently transplanted, to become drought stressed. Keep plants in good condition and in moderate growth. Avoid high fertilizer rates that induce rapid, succulent growth that may be more susceptible to infection.

Prune out and destroy any dead branches at least six inches below discoloration in the bark or sapwood. Be sure to clean pruning tools with a disinfectant after working on infected plants.

Fungicides have not been effective at preventing infections, and once the fungus is inside the wood fungicides can’t touch it, so they are generally not recommended in the landscape.

Avoid using highly susceptible plants, such as Viburnum trilobum or Salix spp., in drought prone sites.

Resources:
Botryosphaeria Canker, Purdue Plant Doctor
Beat Back Borers Attacking Pines, Purdue Landscape Report
Black Spot of Elm, Purdue Landscape Report
Inonotus Dryadeus – Butt and Root Rot of Oaks, Purdue Landscape Report
Stories in the Bark – Patterns and Growth, Purdue Extension – Forestry & Natural Resources Got Nature? Blog
Root Rot in Landscape Plants, The Education Store, Purdue Extension resource center
Dead Man’s Fingers, Purdue Landscape Report
ID That Tree Fall Color: Sugar Maple, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR) YouTube Channel
ID That Tree Fall Color Edition: Black Gum, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
An Introduction to Trees of Indiana, The Education Store
Tree Defect Identification, The Education Store
Tree Wound and Healing, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Shrubs and Woody Vines of Indiana and the Midwest, The Education Store
Ask an Expert: Tree Selection and Planting, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube playlist
ID That Tree, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube playlist
Invasive Species, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Report Invasive Species, Purdue Invasive Species
Find an Arborist, International Society of Arboriculture
Subscribe, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel

Tom Creswell, Plant & Pest Diagnostic Laboratory Director
Purdue Botany and Plant Pathology


Wild Bulletin, Indiana Department of Natural Resources (DNR) Fish and Wildlife: Interested in processing your own deer? Head over to our new webpage to view instructional videos from our partners at the International Hunter Education Association (IHEA) and National Deer Association (NDA). They’ll guide you through each step, including grinding and preserving the meat. Plus, you can download our printable PDF that includes step-by-step instructions for skinning and processing your own deer.

 

To learn more, view the Deer Processing page on the official Indiana DNR website. This is where you can find the instructional PDF along with training videos and other resources!

Subscribe to the Indiana Department of Natural Resources YouTube Channel.

Subscribe to Wild Bulletin.

Resources:
Ask an Expert, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Handling Harvested Game: Episode 1, Field Dressing, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Handling Harvested Game: Episode 2, Hanging & Skinning, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Handling Harvested Game: Episode 3, Deboning, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Handling Harvested Game: Episode 4, Cutting, Grinding & Packaging, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Introduction to White-tailed Deer Impacts on Indiana Woodlands, Got Nature? Blog & The Education Store
Purdue Extension Pond and Wildlife Management
Understanding White-tailed Deer and Their Impact on Indiana Woodlands, The Education Store
Monitoring White-tailed Deer and Their Impact on Indiana Woodlands, The Education Store
Managing White-tailed Deer Impacts on Indiana Woodlands, The Education Store
How to Build a Plastic Mesh Deer Exclusion Fence, The Education Store
Managing Your Woods for White-Tailed Deer, The Education Store
Deer Harvest Data Collection, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Handling Harvested Deer Ask an Expert? video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Subscribe to Purdue Extension-Forestry & Natural Resources YouTube Channel, Wildlife Playlist
A Woodland Management Moment – Deer Fencing, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Video

Indiana Department of Natural Resources – Division of Fish & Wildlife


Got Nature?

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