Got Nature? Blog

Purdue Landscape Report: When I was a kid, if you’d asked me what my favorite season was it would always immediately be summer. No school, time for playing outdoors, swimming, hiking, and late nights playing flashlight tag. Now, if I ranked the seasons from worst to best, they’d be Summer in last, followed by Winter (yes, I choose winter over summer), and a tie between Spring and Fall.  With the best temperatures, a mix of sun and rain/snow, and an explosion of colors from new blooms in the spring to the reds, yellows, and oranges of leaves before they drop in the fall, Spring and Fall are by far my favorite times of the year.  Well, we are nearly to the autumnal equinox with temperatures beginning to drop and the onset of some fall showers as I write this article. With Fall on the doorstep, I’ve received a repeated question recently, “Is it ok to plant a tree in the Fall?”

The short answer to this question is, “Yes!” If you want to add some new tree canopy to your yard, then pick your spot, choose the appropriate species, call #811 before you dig, and get that shovel out. Fall has some excellent reasons to plant trees, two of which I’ve already mentioned, cooler temps and autumn rains. While Autumn tends to be the driest time of the growing season, evapotranspiration rates are generally lower than during the summer season. These conditions reduce heat and water stress on trees (but are not an excuse to not mulch and water your new tree). Another good reason to plant in the fall as opposed to Spring is that instead of amping up for growing, trees are powering down and putting resources into root growth and storage. This means better establishment for the root system and a head start on protection for next year’s summer heat and drought.

There are some points to take into consideration, though. Again, make sure to properly water and mulch your new trees. They need an average of 5 gallons a week per inch of stem diameter if weekly rain isn’t providing around 1” of water. Be aware of when the first freeze is expected. You want to make sure your new trees have at least 6 weeks in the ground before the first freeze/frost and can stop watering after the first freeze. Also, for tree selection/protection, avoid broad leafed evergreen trees as they can be damaged by cold desiccation and wrap the trunks of your new trees to protect them from sunscald and animal damage like rubbing from bucks during the rut.

If you keep these points in mind and continue caring for your tree for the next 2-5 years you should have a successful planting. If you have any questions feel free to contact me at bmccalli@purdue.edu or you can find an ISA Certified Arborist at the following link Find an Arborist.

To view this full article and other Purdue Landscape Report articles, please visit Purdue Landscape Report.

Subscribe and receive the newsletter: Purdue Landscape Report Newsletter.

Resources:
The Purdue Landscape Report
Planning the Tree Planting Operation, The Education Store
Tree Risk Management, The Education Store
Tree Planting Part 2: Planting Your Tree, The Education Store
Planting Your Tree Part 1: Choosing Your Tree, Purdue Extension YouTube Channel
Summer Tree Care, Purdue Landscape Report
Tree Defect Identification, The Education Store
Tree Wound and Healing, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources
Surface Root Syndrome, The Education Store
Shrubs and Woody Vines of Indiana and the Midwest, The Education Store
Ask an Expert: Tree Selection and Planting, Purdue Extension-Forestry & Natural Resources (FNR) YouTube playlist
ID That Tree, Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube playlist
Subscribe – Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube Channel

Ben McCallister, Urban Forestry Specialist
Purdue Forestry & Natural Resources

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Purdue Landscape Report: Many trees are planted for their beautiful fall color, especially in locations where the climate provides reliable autumn weather. I have said this multiple times during extension talks and conversations with submitters to the Purdue Pest & Plant Diagnostic Lab (PPDL), but I seem to have not experienced a ‘normal’ fall since moving to Indiana with how erratic the weather has been from year to year. Depending on weather conditions, such as high heat and drought, colors may develop early or may be duller for specific varieties than expected.

However, individual trees that begin to show fall colors earlier than expected (August, September, even early October) may be shouting out a proverbial cry for help. Plants will often show yellow or red foliage coloration during periods of stress, so this may occur at any point during spring, summer, or fall. Individual trees may also show fall coloration earlier than others of their species in the same area.  Now is the time to keep an eye out for this kind of early fall color as it can give you a heads-up on issues you can expect next year.

When examining a tree with early fall color, I would recommend checking the following:

• Is there a root flare?
  Purdue Landscape Report: Deep Planting article
  • If not – tree could be planted too deep or the soil grade may have been changed
• Is there any obvious damage to the trunk, root flare, or surface roots?
  • If so, there could internal decay that is not obvious and could be contributing to stress
• Are there any girdling roots?
  Purdue Landscape Report: Stem Girdling Roots article
  • If present, they could be affecting the vascular system and strangling the tree
• Is the rootzone mulched?
  • If not, the tree could be under stress from earlier drought, or weed and grass competition.
  • If so, make sure it is not mounded against the trunk of the tree
• Does the soil appear compacted? Was there construction near the tree within the last 5 years?
  • Compaction leads to issues with water, nutrient, and even oxygen availability to the roots and could lead to general decline

It is important to know the host species, but with the sheer volume of plant material available for sale in the nursery trade, it is even more important to know the cultivar that you are planting so you know what you might expect coming into the fall.

To view this full article and other Purdue Landscape Report articles, please visit Purdue Landscape Report.

Subscribe and receive the newsletter: Purdue Landscape Report Newsletter.

Resources:
Why Fall Color is Sometimes a Dud, Purdue Landscape Report
Forest Migration Plays a Role in Fall Foliage Colors, Purdue College of Agriculture News
U.S. Forest Service Fall Colors, Forest Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture
ID That Tree Fall Color: Sugar Maple, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources YouTube Channel, ID That Tree Playlist
ID That Tree Fall Color Edition: Black Gum, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel, ID That Tree Playlist
Autumn Highlights Tour – South Campus, Purdue Arboretum Explorer
Why Leaves Change Color – the Physiological Basis, The Education Store, Purdue Extension resource center
Subscribe, Purdue Extension-Forestry and Natural Resources YouTube Channel
Planting Your Tree Part 1: Choosing Your Tree, Purdue Extension YouTube Channel
Summer Tree Care, Purdue Landscape Report
Tree Defect Identification, The Education Store
Tree Wound and Healing, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources
Surface Root Syndrome, The Education Store
Shrubs and Woody Vines of Indiana and the Midwest, The Education Store
Ask an Expert: Tree Selection and Planting, Purdue Extension-Forestry & Natural Resources (FNR) YouTube playlist
ID That Tree, Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube playlist

John Bonkowski, Plant Disease Diagnostician
Departments of Botany & Plant Pathology

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Purdue Landscape Report: Stop me if you’ve heard this one…. A tree is in a slow decline year after year. You are called to your client’s property only to find the root flare well below grade.

Most professionals in the Green Industry have encountered this at some point in their career. The most common reason for the slow decline of trees in the landscape is due to the depth of planting and girdling roots. Deep planting can cause a number of deleterious problems, including an increase in circling/girdling roots restricting vascular tissue and decay of protective bark (Fig. 1). The vascular tissue in the bark is located on the outer portions of the trunk, while the anatomy of roots contains the vascular tissue in the center. This is why roots can graft with roots and stems can graft with stems, but also why roots can girdle the stems of trees (Fig. 2)

Excessive mounding of mulch (aka volcano mulch) (Fig. 3) can contribute to tree decline, very similar to a tree planted too deep. It’s important to remember that keeping mulch several inches away from the trunk is imperative in tree health.

If a newly transplanted tree is planted significantly too deep, a faster decline can occur, especially in plants that can’t tolerate ‘wet feet’ (aka too much soil moisture) (Fig.4). In heavy-clay soils, the negative effects on tree health increase by creating a bath-tub situation by water not draining expeditiously after a rainfall or irrigation event.

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Purdue Landscape Report: Poison hemlock was introduced to North America as a garden/ornamental plant. It is a native of Europe, and it is a member of the Apiaceae (parsley) family.

Purdue experts Bill Johnson and Marcelo Zimmer wrote about poison hemlock in a Purdue Pest & Crop newsletter.

They wrote that poison hemlock can be noticed very early in the spring every year, as it is typically one of the first weeds to green up, usually in late February to early March if temperatures are favorable. They said the largest threat of this weed is the toxicity of its alkaloids if ingested by livestock or humans, but it can also reduce the aesthetic value of landscapes and has been reported to creep into no-till corn and soybean fields as well.

Purdue Extension’s fact sheet on poison hemlock states that it can also be found along roads, streams, trails, ditches, forest edges, and waste areas.

The Purdue experts said that poison hemlock is a biennial weed that exists as a low-growing herb in the first year, and bolts to three to eight feet tall in the second year, when it produces flowers and seed. It is often not noticed until the bolting and reproductive stages of the second year. Poison hemlock is often confused with wild carrot, but can be distinguished by its lack of hairs and purple blotches that occur on the stems.

The experts pointed out that poison hemlock contains five alkaloids that are toxic to humans and livestock, and it can be lethal if ingested. They warn that the plant’s alkaloids may also be absorbed through the skin, so if you find yourself hand-pulling poison hemlock, it would be a good idea to wear gloves. All parts of the plants contain the toxic alkaloids with levels being variable throughout the year. Symptoms of toxicity include nervousness, trembling, and loss of coordination followed by depression, coma, and/or death. Initial symptoms will occur within a few hours of ingestion.

For history buffs, the Greek philosopher Socrates was sentenced to death by hemlock poisoning.

Cases of poisoning due to poison hemlock ingestion are rare as the plants emit a mousy odor that makes it undesirable and unpalatable to livestock and humans. Consumption and toxicity in animals usually occur in poorly managed or overgrazed pastures where animals are forced to graze poison hemlock because desirable forage is lacking.

To view this full article and other Purdue Landscape Report articles, please visit Purdue Landscape Report.

Subscribe and receive the newsletter: Purdue Landscape Report Newsletter.

Resources:
The Purdue Landscape Report
Purdue Pest & Crop Newsletter
Invasive Plant Species Fact Sheets: Poison Hemlock, The Education Store, Purdue Extension Resource Center
Poison Hemlock (Conium maculatum), United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)
Invasive plants: impact on environment and people, The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s resource center
Woodland Management Moment: Invasive Species Control Process, Video, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR) YouTube Channel
Invasive Species, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
What are invasive species and why should I care?, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Report Invasive, Purdue College of Agriculture – Entomology

John Woodmansee, Extension Educator, Whitely County
Purdue Extension

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Watering your trees has become an essential activity. With only a few storms so far this summer, much of the state has abnormally dry to severe drought conditions. View U.S. Drought Monitor to see diagram for Indiana. Many homeowners are finding their trees with dry and wilted leaves. In this video, Lindsey Purcell, Indiana Arborist Association executive director, talks about the importance of watering your trees and how to do so effectively.

Extreme heat can have a major impact on tree health and survival. Water is the most limiting ecological resource for a tree, and without adequate moisture, decline and death are imminent. It reduces carbohydrate production, significantly lowering energy reserves and production of defense chemicals in the tree. Check out this publication titled Drought? Don’t Forget the Trees! to learn what to look for for any weakening issues including pests that like the dry conditions.

If you have any questions regarding wildlife, trees, forest management, wood products, natural resource planning or other natural resource topics, feel free to contact us by using our Ask an Expert web page.

Resources:
Summer Tree Care, Purdue Landscape Report
Drought? Don’t Forget the Trees!, The Education Store, Purdue Extension resource center
Extreme Heat, Purdue Extension – IN-PREPared
Drought Information​, Indiana Department of Natural Resources
Planting Your Tree Part 1: Choosing Your Tree, Purdue Extension YouTube Channel
Tree Selection for the “Un-natural” Environment, The Education Store
Tree Pruning Essentials Video, Purdue Extension YouTube Channel
Tree Defect Identification, The Education Store
Tree Wound and Healing, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources
Surface Root Syndrome, The Education Store
Submit Sample, Purdue Plant & Pest Diagnostic Lab
Find an Arborist, Indiana Arborist Association

Ben McCallister, Urban Forestry Specialist
Purdue Forestry & Natural Resources

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Purdue Landscape Report: Some of the questions that I get asked quite frequently are “Are my trees ok?”, “Do I need to have an arborist come work on my trees?”, and “Is there anything I can do to help my trees without hurting my savings?”. Just like many questions, the answers are dependent on the situation. There are a multitude of cases where it is in the best interest of both you and the tree to hire a professional. From removals and storm damage, to pruning at height and/or around utilities, and other dangerous situations, you really should invest in the cost of a certified arborist. But there are instances where you can save some money and feel the pride of caring for your trees yourself by doing some of your own pruning work.

You might not think too much about pruning. Maybe you feel like “Hey! Anyone can cut off a branch”, and you’re right but also not. There is a right and wrong way to pruning and cleaning out dead wood. Depending on where you cut and how much you remove, you might end up doing more damage to your tree and end up requiring the assistance of an arborist earlier than needed. For the pruning layperson, there are several topics that can help you prune like a pro: safety, equipment, and proper pruning cuts.

First and foremost is safety. From this time of the year onward it’s only going to get hotter, but it’s important to protect your body from accidents with your tools, from the elements, and even from the plants you’re pruning by wearing the proper personal protective equipment (PPE). From the toes up, skilled professionals have their work boots (closed toed shoes), pants (not shorts), at the very least a t-shirt, gloves and safety glasses, and hearing and head protection depending on the equipment and scale of work. And if you’re using power equipment like chainsaws make sure you’ve got protective chaps for that added level of safety.

The standard equipment available for pruning includes hand pruners, loppers, and hand and pole saws (I’ll touch on chainsaws more in a later article). The two main types of pruners and loppers are called bypass and anvil styles. Bypass pruners have two blades that “bypass” each other like scissors, leaving clean cuts on your trees and shrubs. Anvil pruners have a single blade that shuts against a flat surface, the “anvil”, and can leave bruised or crushed plant material after cuts. Use your hand pruners for smaller cuts (up to 3/4” in diameter depending on the quality of your blade) and your loppers for larger diameters that might not require a hand saw.

When choosing a hand or pole saw, it is best to have one specifically designed for pruning. Pruning saws come in different configurations. They can be straight or curved, have fixed or folding blades, and come in different lengths and teeth sizes. A good rule of thumb is shorter blades or blades with smaller teeth for finer pruning cuts and longer blades with larger teeth for bigger diameter limbs (pole saws will usually have larger blades attached to single or extendable poles). You’ll also want a blade that isn’t so thin that it buckles on the first cut. For pruning at home, I recommend a 10-12” saw with medium sized teeth. That coupled with a hand pruner and some loppers should cover most of your pruning projects.

Now that you have your PPE and your pruning equipment you’ll want to begin cutting, but there are some considerations along with dos and don’ts for pruning. First, you want to decide what your goals are (raising the canopy off the ground or a building, thinning the crown to increase light and/or wind, or reducing the canopy by shortening limbs) and how much you need to remove from your tree (Fig. 1). In most cases, less is more. Whenever you remove plant material you are doing two things:

1) you are injuring the tree, exposing open cuts to pests, diseases, and the elements

2) you are removing plant material that could continue to create energy for the tree if left on.

Both will stress your tree and it will need time to adapt and heal. You can always remove more later, but once you make your cuts you cannot put them back. If your tree needs a heavier prune, it’s time to bring in an arborist.

Next you need to consider what are you cutting? Are you removing whole limbs back to the trunk or are you shortening limbs? If you are removing limbs you want to avoid flush cuts, cutting back even to the trunk. Flush cuts (Fig. 2) are usually oval and have a larger surface area exposing more of the tree to pests, diseases, and the elements. Instead, you want to cut up to the branch bark ridge, a raised portion of bark on the top of the limb where it meets the trunk, and the branch collar, usually a swollen area on the bottom side of the limb where it begins to flare out from the trunk (Fig. 3). This is a proper removal cut that has the smallest surface area exposed and is usually more circular than oval.

If you are shortening limbs you want to perform a reduction cut, which is removing a larger stem by cutting back to a lateral branch that is at least 1/3 the diameter of the portion you are removing (Fig. 4). This provides sufficient energy production the keep the remaining limb alive. In this situation, you want to avoid heading cuts, which are length reductions without regard to the position or diameter of the lateral branch you are cutting back too. Cutting too far away from the lateral will lead to dead stubs that increase exposure and the time needed to heal over wounds. Cutting to laterals that are too small won’t allow the limb to produce enough energy to survive.

Last, whether you are applying removal or reduction cuts, you want to utilize what is called the ternary or 3-Cut Method (Fig. 5). The purpose of this method to stop damage from splitting and tear-outs in larger limbs that can’t be controlled by hand. The first cut is the undercut, about 1/3 the diameter of the limb and usually 6-12 inches from your final cut. The second cut is the top cut just outside the undercut. This cut continues down until it meets the same plane as the undercut where gravity will take hold as the branch snaps and falls. The final cut is to the branch collar, or the chosen lateral as noted above.

Proper pruning can be a daunting task at first. With time, the correct materials, and practice you can better care for your trees, your landscape, and yourself. If you are still worried about your trees, there are plenty of resources at Purdue Extension and The Education Store or you can always find an ISA Certified Arborist nearby using the Trees Are Good website. They will be able to help assess any other issues and provide excellent professional help.

Resources:
Tree Pruning Essentials, Video & Document
Tree Pruning for the Landscape Webinar, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR) Youtube Channel
Tree Appraisal and the Value of Trees, The Education Store, Purdue Extension resource center
Tree Pruning: What Do Trees Think?, The Education Store
Mechanical Damage to Trees: Mowing and Maintenance Equipment, The Education Store
Tree Installation Process and Practices, The Education Store
Tree Planting Part 1: Choosing a Tree, The Education Store
Tree Planting Part 2: Planting Your Tree, The Education Store
Planting Problems: Planting Too Deep, Video, Purdue Extension – FNR Youtube Channel

Ben McCallister, Urban Forestry Specialist
Purdue Forestry and Natural Resources

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The classic and trusted book “Fifty Common Trees of Indiana” by T.E. Shaw was published in 1956 as a user-friendly guide to local species.  Nearly 70 years later, the publication has been updated through a joint effort by the Purdue Department of Forestry and Natural Resources, Indiana 4-H, and the Indiana Department of Natural Resources, and reintroduced as “An Introduction to Trees of Indiana.”

The full publication is available for download for $7 in the Purdue Extension Education Store. The field guide helps identify common Indiana woodlot trees.

Each week, the Intro to Trees of Indiana web series will offer a sneak peek at one species from the book, paired with an ID That Tree video from Purdue Extension forester Lenny Farlee to help visualize each species as it stands in the woods. Threats to species health as well as also insight into the wood provided by the species, will be provided through additional resources as well as the Hardwoods of the Central Midwest exhibit of the Purdue Arboretum, if available.

This week, we meet the Virginia pine, or Pinus virginiana. In Indiana, this species is native to the southern part of the state, namely Clark and Floyd counties in the dry, hilly areas known as the Knobs near the Ohio River, but it has been widely planted across the state.

This native conifer has clusters of two needles, approximately two inches long, which are often twisted.

The Virginia pine has an open canopy. Bark on the Virginia pine is flaky, with a combination of gray and red-orange tones. The bark gets more orange higher up the trunk. Cones are one to three inches long and have very sharp thorns at the end of the scales. Cones typically stay on the tree for several years.

For full article with additional photos view: Intro to Trees of Indiana: Virginia Pine, Forestry and Natural Resources’ News.

If you have any questions regarding wildlife, trees, forest management, wood products, natural resource planning or other natural resource topics, feel free to contact us by using our Ask an Expert web page.

Other Resources:
ID That Tree: Virginia Pine
Borers of Pines and Other Needle Bearing Evergreens in Landscapes, The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s resource center
Managing the Zimmerman Pine Moth, The Education Store
Purdue Arboretum Explorer
The Woody Plant Seed Manual, U.S. Forest Service
Native Trees of the Midwest, The Education Store
Shrubs and Woody Vines of Indiana and the Midwest, The Education Store
Investing in Indiana Woodlands, The Education Store
Forest Improvement Handbook, The Education Store
ID That Tree, Purdue Extension-Forestry & Natural Resources (FNR) YouTube playlist
Woodland Management Moment , Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube playlist

Wendy Mayer, FNR Communications Coordinator
Purdue University Department of Forestry and Natural Resources

Lenny Farlee, Extension Forester
Purdue University Department of Forestry and Natural Resources

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Join Indiana Forestry & Woodland Owners Association (IFWOA) as they celebrate the state’s natural beauty by sharing photos and stories from Carroll Ritter’s book of “Magnificent Trees of Indiana.” They discuss the changes that have occurred over the last two centuries in Indiana’s forests, including the landscape geology and physiography.

Check out the Indiana Forestry & Woodland Association YouTube Channel for videos including: What is IFWOA?; A New Carbon Program for Hardwood Landowners Webinar, Indiana’s Native Orchids, Magnificent Trees of Indiana, Be Tick Aware and much more.

The Indiana Forestry & Woodland Owners Association (IFWOA) was founded in 1977 and is a non-profit organization dedicated to conservation and sustainable management of woodlands in Indiana. IFWOA advocates for scientific best practices for management to achieve objectives of clean water, wildlife habitat, soil protection, native species diversity, timber production, recreation, carbon sequestration and many others.

IFWOA is an affiliate of the National Woodland Owners Association. IFWOA is a partner, collaborator or is represented on leading National and State organizations. These memberships or collaborations are selected to advance Indiana Woodland owner’s interests. IFWOA monitors and influences legislation and economic trends impacting Indiana woodlands and landowners for our members. Membership in IFWOA provides a valuable network linkage to information and resources at the leading edge of science, industry and politics impacting Indiana woodlands.

Resources:
Magnificent Trees of Indiana, Purdue University Press
Forest Improvement Handbook, The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s resource center
Planting Hardwood Seedlings – The Education Store
Ordering Seedlings from the State Forest Nursery System, Got Nature? – Purdue Extension-FNR
Importance of Hardwood Tree Planting – The Education Store, Purdue Extension Resource Center
Forest Improvement Handbook – The Education Store
Designing Hardwood Tree Plantings for Wildlife – The Education Store
ID That Tree – YouTube Playlist
Forest Management for Reptiles and Amphibians: A Technical Guide for the Midwest, The Education Store
Hardwood Ecosystem Experiment – Forest Birds , Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Managing Woodlands for Birds , Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Sustaining Our Oak-Hickory Forests , Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Ask the Expert: Hardwood Ecosystem Experiment – Birds and Salamander Research, Purdue Extension – FNR
Subscribe to Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube Channel

Liz Jackson, Engagement Lead
Indiana Forestry & Woodland Association

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Purdue Landscape Report: The emerald ash borer (EAB), Agrilus planennis, is still one of the most damaging insect pests ever to invade North American forests. Unlike most native boring insects, this beetle can attack and kill relatively healthy ash trees. In Indiana cities we found this insect capable of killing most of the unprotected ash trees within 6 to 10 years.  Nearly 20 years after its first detection in Indiana (2004), trees still need to be protected to keep them alive. The benefits of these living ash trees easily justify the cost of monitoring them. We provide answers to common questions people have about the need for continued treatment.

• I have had a tree care specialist treat my ash trees for the last 10 years. What will happen to these trees if I stop this service? If your trees are still healthy, they were probably treated with injections of emamectin benzoate.  Initially we recommended treating trees once every 2 years. This was especially helpful during the initial invasion when each newly infested tree was producing hundreds of beetles per year.  Now that most of the untreated ash trees are dead in Indiana, there are fewer emerald ash borers to attack the surviving ash trees. Research clearly shows that treating trees once every 3 years is enough to keep ash trees alive. Increasing the time between treatments beyond 3 years will increase the risk of losing your trees.

We recently completed a 10-year study in Indianapolis, where large ash trees were treated at 3-year intervals (2013 and 2016), Although they were well-protected through 2019, we saw a slight increase in damage 4 and 5 years after the last injection (2020 and 2021).  By the 6^th year trees after the last treatment (2022), trees declined to the point that they were a safety hazard.  Overall, spring treatments were more effective than fall treatments.

• Is it worthwhile to continue treating my trees? The simple answer is YES, especially if you think about the costs of the alternatives over time. Consider the following choices:
  • Homeowner tree removal vs treatment. Suppose you had ash tree that was whose trunk diameter was 30 inches. If you were to have that tree and its stump removed, the cost could easily be $1800.   If an ash tree is near your house or other valuable structure special precautions need to be taken to keep limbs from causing damage. These protective measures add greatly to the labor costs and could easily double the removal costs ($3600). In contrast, to keep that tree alive, you would have to inject that tree once every three years at a cost of $300 (assuming the fee is $10/ diameter inch).  In other words, the $1800 -3600 you pay to remove the trees would provide 18-36 years of enjoying your tree!
  • Homeowner tree replacement vs treatment. Trees grow slowly. Most add a bit less than a half an inch per year of diameter to the trunk. So, if you add $500 on top of the removal costs to plant a new tree ($2300- $4100), the same money would provide 23 to 42 years of tree enjoyment. Moreover, the tree you planted would only be half the size of the original ash tree in 30 years.

For the full article please visit Purdue Landscape Report: Should ash trees still be protected from emerald ash borer?

Resources:
New Hope for Fighting Ash Borer, Got Nature? Purdue Extension-FNR
Invasive Pest Species: Tools for Staging and Managing EAB in the Urban Forest, Got Nature?
Emerald Ash Borer, Purdue Extension-Entomology
Emerald Ash Borer Cost Calculator – Purdue Extension Entomology
Planting Your Tree Part 1: Choosing Your Tree, Purdue Extension YouTube Channel
Tree Planting Part 2: Planting a Tree, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources YouTube Channel
Indiana Invasive Plant List, Indiana Invasive Species Council, Purdue Entomology
Landscape Report Shares Importance of Soil Testing, Purdue FNR Extension
Find an Arborist website, Trees are Good, International Society of Arboriculture (ISA)
Tree Risk Management – The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s resource center

Bob Bruner, Exotic Forest Pest Educator
Purdue Entomology

Cliff Sadof, Professor, Ornamental, Pest Management
Purdue Entomology Extension Coordinator

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