Purdue University - Extension - Forestry and Natural Resources
Question: Is it recommended to feed birds during the summer? Could this effect migration?
Answer: Continuing to feed birds in the spring and summer comes down to personal preference and is not a problem for birds. Many things drive migration including daylength. The only difference is some foods (e.g., suet) can become rancid. Even bird seed (especially wet seed) can spoil quicker. You can fix this by changing out your food regularly, or by not filling the feeders as full so that birds empty the feeder more quickly.
Resources:
The Basics of Bird Migration: How, Why and Where, Cornell Lab
Feeding Birds, Cornell Lab
Bird Feeding Tips, Audubon.org
More Resources:
Virtual Tour Brings Forest Management for Birds to Life, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR) Got Nature? Blog
Breeding Bird Atlas, Indiana Department of Natural Resources
IN DNR Shares How to Keep Your Backyard Birds Healthy, Purdue Extension – FNR Got Nature? Blog
Question: Is there any risk of becoming infected with avian influenza virus by feeding backyard birds?, Purdue Extension – FNR Got Nature? Blog
Breeding Birds and Forest Management: the Hardwood Ecosystem Experiment and the Central Hardwoods Region, The Education Store, Purdue Extension resource center
Forest Birds, The Education Store
Managing Woodlands for Birds, The Education Store
Managing Woodlands for Birds Video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
The Birders’ Dozen, Profile: Baltimore Oriole, Indiana Woodland Steward
Ask An Expert, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube channel
Birds and Residential Window Strikes: Tips for Prevention, The Education Store
No Room at the Inn: Suburban Backyards and Migratory Birds, Education Store
Putting a Little Wildlife in Your Backyard This Spring, The Education Store
Subscribe, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Dr. Brian MacGowan, Extension Wildlife Specialist & Certified Wildlife Biologist
Department of Forestry & Natural Resources, Purdue University
MyDNR, Indiana’s Outdoor Newsletter: Do you have bats roosting on your property? Help DNR by counting how many bats fly out during a few evenings this summer. Monitoring bats as they emerge from roosts helps us manage the reproductive health of bats across the state.
The Summer Bat Roost Monitoring Project uses volunteers to collect information on the distribution, occupancy and abundance of bat colonies throughout Indiana.
Participants must have bats roosting on their property or permission to enter property where a roost occurs. Possible roost sites include trees, bat houses, barns, attics, outbuildings and other structures. On each night of surveying, volunteers count the bats that exit the roost and record weather information. Each survey takes about an hour and is conducted on eight to 12 nights from mid-May to mid-July.
Newsletter can be found online May: DNR: Communications: MyDNR Email Newsletter (in.gov)
For more information please visit Summer Bat Roost Monitoring Project.
To sign up for the project, visit the Division of Fish & Wildlife’s volunteer page and select “Find an ongoing service project.” Wildlife Diversity staff also monitor bats using mobile acoustic surveys and acoustic monitoring stations.
Resources:
Hardwood Ecosystem Experiment (HEE) Highlights: Bats, Video, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR) YouTube Channel
Bats in the Belfry, Purdue Extension – FNR Got Nature? Blog
Ask An Expert: Bats on the Hardwood Ecosystem Experiment (HEE), Video, Purdue Extension – FNR Facebook
Bats in Indiana, Indiana Department of Natural Resources (IN DNR)
Bat Houses, Bat Conservation International
Creating a Wildlife Habitat Management Plan for Landowners, The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s resource center
The Hardwood Ecosystem Experiment (HEE): Indiana Forestry and Wildlife, The Education Store
Unexpected Plants and Animals of Indiana: Indiana Bats, Purdue College of Agriculture News
Selecting a Nuisance Wildlife Control Professional, The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s resource center
FAQs – How can I get rid of nuisance wildlife (bats, deer, racoons, etc.)?
Subscribe to Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube Channel
Indiana Department of Natural Resources, Department of Fish & Wildlife
Trees are lost every year from storm-related events. Major damage to parts of the tree or even the entire tree can result from high winds, snow and ice. Historic, specimen and significant trees provide value to the landscape and the community, and these trees can become aesthetic, financial and social losses in storms. In addition to physical damage or loss, risk and liability can become a concern to people and the surrounding property. Seasonal storms can cause extensive damage depending on timing and intensity. Deciding what to do with damaged trees is an important process.
Over time, trees swaying in the wind develop extra strength to withstand directional forces. If conditions are consistent, trees will initiate changes in their development to compensate for these loading patterns. They are biologically engineered to adjust to external loading, under normal conditions. This fiber strength can minimize the impact of external forces, unless they are excessive, such as during a storm. Typically, these loads come from wind. However, ice and snow also can cause damage from excessive weight on branches.
Typical weather events are not an issue for trees. They are engineered to withstand normal conditions. However, some storms can exert extreme forces, resulting in injuries of varying degrees. It is at this point that a tree owner or manager must make an informed decision based on the extent of the damage. The assistance of a trained arborist can help determine if a tree can be saved from sustained injuries, or if it requires removal
The response to storm damage should be based primarily on two concepts: risk and sustainability. If the tree is an imminent or likely danger to people, property or activities, the decision leaves little room for options. However, if the residual risk from the damage is determined to be of an acceptable level and the injury to the tree not life- threatening, mitigation may be possible to save the tree and reduce the danger.
There are several types of tree damage that occur from violent weather. Each has its own specific assessment considerations. All parts of the tree should be inspected during a post-storm assessment.
Some common damage found includes:
Wind Throw
The entire tree is “pushed over” by high winds. The loading forces on the aerial tree portions are too great for the developed root system. Previous harm from activities such as construction damage, lack of maintenance and attacks from pests predisposes the tree to damage with poor anchorage or health. Inspect the root plate of each tree on a regular basis to determine if there are any root health issues. Look for fungal fruiting bodies, exposed roots, lifting or other damage. Larger or more mature trees that have been completely uprooted are typically not salvageable
Stem Failure
Trees will fail at their weakest point. Typically, failure is caused by the combination of a defect and external forces. Old injury sites or wounds are common on tree trunks, and these damaged areas can lead to tree failure under excessive loads. Also, trees newly exposed to prevailing winds from development or removal can be at greater risk. Trunks can snap or buckle if the tree is unable to withstand the wind forces. Damage from stem failure usually cannot be repaired. Trees with major defects on the trunk should be examined carefully to determine the degree of risk for that location. Look for decayed areas, cavities, nesting holes and fungal fruiting bodies for indicators. The extent and location of these defects will help the arborist determine the potential for failure.
Crown Twist
The tree canopy contains an array of leaves, twigs and branches that make up the crown portion of the tree.
Many times, the crown can have an uneven geometry from competition or poor pruning, leaving an unequal appearance. The result of this situation in high winds can be trouble. Uneven wind loading on the lopsided crown produces a damaging twist on major branches and the stem. This twisting causes torsional stress, much like twisting a rope backwards, resulting in splits and cracking. This is especially damaging around old wounds or other defects, which can lead to failure. Close investigation is necessary to spot these often-subtle cracks. Often this damage can be mitigated in branches; however, take caution with damaged trunks.
Root Failure
Stability and anchorage are important roles of the root system for keeping a tree upright.
Both the structural, woody roots and the fine absorbing roots create an effective network of strength to withstand wind-loading forces. As the tree becomes larger, increased stress is put on the roots to maintain stability.
Roots that are restricted, diseased or damaged can cause trees to lean and fall. Careful examination of the root plate is needed to determine if anchorage is compromised. Look for heaving soil and roots around the tree trunk, which can present a high-risk situation. The presence of pulled or broken roots, as well as any mushroom development around the root system, also can be indicators of defects in the roots. Depending on the age, size and degree of exposure, mitigation may be possible. Young trees with healthy roots systems can be up righted and staked or guyed with success. However, if more than 30 percent of the roots are exposed, removal may be the better option.
Branch Failure
Tree branches are easy victims of loading forces. Whether it is axial loading from snow or ice accretion or lateral, side loading from wind, damage is frequent. Because branches can sometimes be poorly attached to the main stems, they can easily experience injury. However, this structural arrangement allows the branches to be flexible and disposable, and easily shed in times of stress to help dampen the impact of wind, minimizing damage to the larger, structural branches.
Poor architecture and development, such as codominant stems and included bark in branch junctions, predisposes branches to failure and often are the first to experience damage. Branch failure can be easily repaired and not lethal to the tree unless more than half the crown has been destroyed. However, they can create high-risk situations in the wrong places. Learn to recognize dead, broken, hanging limbs or other signs of damage to reduce risk. Often twisted and cracked branches are difficult to see and may need closer inspection by an arborist to identify. Be sure to use pruning best practices when correcting damage in the crown.
There are other forms of damage, such as lightning damage, which can be detrimental and even lethal to trees. A certified arborist or qualified consulting arborist can help provide a prognosis.
Storm Damage Prevention
It is impossible to protect a tree from storms or prevent damage from weather events. However, there are some actions that can minimize injury to trees.
The best preparation begins when trees are young or newly planted. Do not stake or guy trees unless absolutely necessary. This prevents development of internal adjustments to wind with response wood growth. Let the tree adjust to local conditions by allowing natural movement.
Functional pruning helps trees form a healthy, more wind-resistant crown. Inspection and corrective pruning of newly planted trees produces a stronger structure. Eliminate codominant stems by pruning these weak- forked branches. Choose a good, strong central leader for young trees. This will prevent losing the whole crown in the future. Choose branches with even spacing, radially around the tree for balance and symmetry.
Inspect trees for broken, dying, diseased and dead branches each year. Also, conduct a visual assessment after a storm event. Look for crossing branches, which lead to problems where rubbing produces damage and decay. Always favor branches with a “U” shape or greater than 45° angle, which forms an optimal connection. These branches will have fewer tendencies to split or break from wind or ice loads. Eliminate branches with bark inclusion and tight or narrow branch junctions.
Branch training is essential for sustainable, long-term tree plantings.
Under no circumstances should a tree be “topped” to prevent wind or ice damage. Topped trees produce many small, poorly attached sprouts and as they grow, the canopy weight and density is actually increased. In addition, topped branches often develop decay and diseased stems, which further weakens the tree and makes the branches more susceptible to breakage. Topping may seem to make a tree safer, but it actually increases the potential for storm damage with unhealthy epicormic sprouting and additional decay in the stems.
When mature trees develop unequal crowns, prune to improve symmetry. However, remember pruning best practices and never remove more than 30 percent of the crown at one time. It may take several years for crown restoration. Good pruning techniques also promote faster healing of the cuts.
Do not try to “wind-proof” the tree by thinning out branches. Trees rely on proper branching habits and placement to dampen the wind energy affecting them. Excessive and unnecessary pruning creates wounds and additional stress on tree health. Allow the tree to develop fully and naturally by pruning only when needed. However, proper health care includes pruning for vigor. This includes removing dead, dying or diseased branches, poor branch attachments, crossing branches and narrow branch angles. After this functional pruning, some thinning is achieved to reduce drag or sail in the canopy.
A healthy tree is the best defense to any challenge the tree may face in its lifetime. Appropriate watering and fertilization improves root growth and structure, making the tree more stable. Monitor for pest problems and treat when needed to prevent insects and diseases from weakening tree health. Remove diseased branches, as needed, to minimize spread and potential damage.
Risk Assessment
Following a severe storm event, not all trees will need to be pruned or removed, and many will need little or no treatment. After identifying the type of damage, risk assessment is the priority. One of the more critical tasks for the property owner is determining an acceptable level of risk. It is the responsibility of a tree owner or manager to maintain and manage their trees to protect the safety of others. This usually requires assistance from a well-qualified arborist.
Post-Storm Response
Damage assessment is the next step. Review the affected tree or trees to determine the level of injury. Some trees may not require any action and can recover on their own. The challenging part of the assessment is deciding which trees can be pruned properly to a healthy state and which trees should be removed. Many factors are involved in the decision, and damage may be hidden or difficult to determine. It is critical to get a professional arborist with credentials to conduct the assessment and the work required to mitigate the injured parts of the tree.
Hire a Certified Arborist
One key to dealing with the challenges of storm damage is to consult a qualified tree service. Finding a qualified tree care professional is important protection for the property owner. Sometimes less credible companies follow storms to take advantage of a bad situation. Knowing how to hire a reputable arborist can protect a property owner from being victimized. A professionally trained arborist can determine if a tree can be saved. Even if the tree must be removed, safety and training are needed to prevent additional damage or injury from the removal. An International Society of Arboriculture Certified Arborist can help save a tree or improve the risk situations that follow storms. Also, choosing an accredited company brings the highest level of standards for client satisfaction and safety.
A list of qualified arborists can be obtained by contacting the following sources:
For more information contact: Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources Office, fnrextension@purdue.edu, 765-494- 3590.
Resources:
Find an Arborist video, Trees are Good-International Society of Arboriculture (ISA)
Caring for storm-damaged trees/How to Acidify Soil in the Yard – In the Grow, Purdue Extension
Tree Risk Management – Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Why Is My Tree Dying? – Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR)
Mechanical Damage to Trees: Mowing and Maintenance Equipment – Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Spring Storms Are Coming: How to Reduce Tree Damage and Risk – Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Trees and Electric Lines – The Education Store
Planting Your Tree Part 1: Choosing Your Tree, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Tree Installation: Process and Practices, The Education Store
Tree Wound and Healing, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Subscribe – Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube Channel
Lindsey Purcell, Executive Director
Indiana Arborist Association
Welcome to ID That Tree! In this edition, Purdue Extension Forester Lenny Farlee highlights a native bramble species—black raspberry. A member of the Rubus family, black raspberry is commonly found throughout Indiana, making it useful to recognize its key features. Tune in to learn how to identify this plant by its unique leaf pattern (and how it’s different from autumn olive), understand its role in wildlife habitats and explore its many uses and benefits!
If you have any questions regarding wildlife, trees, forest management, wood products, natural resource planning or other natural resource topics, feel free to contact us by using our Ask an Expert web page.
Resources:
ID That Tree – Video Playlist, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR) YouTube Channel
Purdue Arboretum Explorer
Conservation Tree Planting: Steps to Success, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
A Woodland Management Moment, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Woodland Stewardship for Landowners, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Indiana Department of Natural Resources: Invasive Species
Indiana Invasive Species Council
Cooperative Invasive Species Management Area (CISMA)
Report Invasive, Purdue Extension
Fifty Common Trees of Indiana, Purdue Extension – FNR
Habitat University, Episode 12 – Exploring the challenges of Invasive Species, Habitat University-Natural Resource University
Shrubs and Woody Vines of Indiana and the Midwest, The Education Store
Native Trees of the Midwest, The Education Store
Professional Forester, Indiana Forestry Woodland Owners Association
Forest Improvement Handbook, The Education Store
Find an Arborist, International Society of Arboriculture
Lenny Farlee, Extension Forester
Hardwood Tree Improvement and Regeneration Center
Purdue Department of Forestry & Natural Resources
Explore the dual nature of goldenrods in conservation plantings. While goldenrods like tall and Canada goldenrod benefit pollinators and wildlife, their aggressive growth can outcompete other plants, reducing diversity. This guide offers insights into managing goldenrods to maintain a balanced and thriving ecosystem. It is essential reading for land managers and conservationists committed to maintaining a diverse grassland ecosystem.
Check out the Managing Conservation Plantings series which include details on how to control invasive species and other problematic plants in Conservation Reserve Program (CRP) plantings and native warm-season grass and wildflower conservation plantings.
Plant Facts
Whether you’re managing a pasture, wildlife area, or prairie restoration, this resource provides science-based strategies to control goldenrod effectively. Learn more about managing goldenrod species in grasslands and wildlife habitats, enhancing your land’s ecological health by reading the full publication: Managing Conservation Plantings: Goldenrod Control, (330kb, pdf).
This publication is part of a seven publication series The Managing Conservation Plantings Series. Publications in this series include:
Resources:
Deer Impact Toolbox & Grassland Management, Purdue Extension Pond and Wildlife Management
Pond and Wildlife Management, Purdue Extension
Forestry for the Birds Virtual Tour and Pocket Guide, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Frost Seeding to Establish Wildlife Food Plots and Native Grass and Forb Plantings – Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube channel
Wildlife Habitat Hint: Tips for Evaluating a First Year Native Grass and Forb Plantings, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Drone Seeding Native Grasses and Forbs: Project Overview & Drone Setup, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube channel
Ask an Expert: Wildlife Food Plots, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Handling Harvested Game: Episode 1, Field Dressing, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Managing Your Woods for White-Tailed Deer, The Education Store
Forest Improvement Handbook, The Education Store
Forest Management for Reptiles and Amphibians: A Technical Guide for the Midwest, The Education Store
A Template for Your Wildlife Habitat Management Plan, The Education Store
Woodland Stewardship for Landowners, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube channel
Nature of Teaching Unit 1: Animal Diversity and Tracking, The Education Store
Nature of Teaching, Purdue College of Agriculture
Invasive Species Playlist, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Report Invasive, Purdue Extension
Subscribe Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources YouTube Channel
Jarred Brooke, Wildlife Extension Specialist
Purdue Department of Forestry and Natural Resources
Hoosier Ag Today: White-tailed deer are very important to Indiana woodlands. But in many areas of the state, deer populations have grown far beyond what the land can support.

Trail cameras monitor deer impact on woodlands. Integrated Deer Management Project, Purdue University photo.
“Through their browsing and what they eat, they can actually reduce plant diversity and limit the growth of some of our tree seedlings, such as Oak, which are both economically and ecologically important,” says Jarred Brooke, Purdue Extension Wildlife Specialist.
“They can actually cause issues with increases in the invasive species that they don’t eat, like Japanese stilt grass or garlic mustard,” he says.
For woodland owners across Indiana who might not be sure if deer are even a problem on their property, how can they better understand and measure deer impacts?
“I think the first step is being aware and being tuned in to the problems that deer can cause,” he says. “Fortunately, with the help of The Nature Conservancy here in Indiana, we at Purdue Extension created a series of publications and videos called the Deer Impact Toolbox, which are designed to help landowners really understand, monitor, and address the impacts that deer have in their woodlands. These resources are a great starting point for any landowner that is interested in learning more about deer impacts.”
He adds that the best way to manage those impacts from deer are hunting, habitat management, and plant protection.
“Through the reduction of the number of deer by harvesting does on your property, that can be an effective way to reduce their impact,” he says. “Also if you can improve the habitat for deer on your property, either through forest improvement or through a timber harvest, you can actually create more food on the landscape, which reduces overall dear impact.
“The last big way is through protecting the plants that you’re trying to keep deer from browsing. That can be fencing, tree plantations, putting tree tubes or tree shelters on young trees, or fencing sensitive areas from deer browsing,” he says.
Read the Deer Toolbox Publications: Deer Impact Toolbox.
View the original article and listen to the Hoosier Ag Today’s radio News in the Hoosier Ag Today April 2025: Managing the Impact of White-tailed Deer on Indiana Woodlands.
Resources:
Purdue Extension Pond and Wildlife Management
Ask an Expert: Wildlife Food Plots, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
How to Build a Plastic Mesh Deer Exclusion Fence, The Education Store
A Woodland Management Moment – Deer Fencing, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Video
Managing Your Woods for White-Tailed Deer, The Education Store
Bovine Tuberculosis in Wild White-tailed Deer, The Education Store
Handling Harvested Game: Episode 1, Field Dressing, video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Deer Harvest Data Collection, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
How to Score Your White-tailed Deer, video, Purdue Extension
White-Tailed Deer Post Harvest Collection, video, Purdue Forestry and Natural Resources
Age Determination in White-tailed Deer, video, Purdue Extension
Handling Harvested Deer Ask an Expert? video, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Subscribe to Purdue Extension-Forestry & Natural Resources YouTube Channel, Wildlife Playlist
Jarred Brooke, Wildlife Extension Specialist
Purdue Department of Forestry and Natural Resources
Purdue Landscape Report: Spring is finally here! Everywhere you look, one can find some spring color around. Some of the first plants to peek out of the ground are spring-flowering bulbs like crocus, daffodil and tulip. But there are some beautiful spring time shrubs that are Indiana native plants you can add to your yard to be the first in the neighborhood with spring interest. Below, you’ll find a top 10 list of spring-flowering shrubs (in order of flower appearance).

Figure 1. Witch-hazel is one of the first shrubs to bloom in the spring. Though similar to forsythia, it typically flowers a couple of weeks earlier.
Witch-hazel (Hamamelis x intermedia) Perhaps even earlier-flowering than Forsythia, is ‘Arnold Promise’ witch-hazel. This shrub can flower starting in late winter (unless we have unusually cold winter weather like polar vortices) and keep going all the way into spring. Bright flowers are yellow with red tinges, though there are red-flowering cultivars available. Witch-hazel can be grown as a shrub or a small tree and offers some yellow/orange/red fall color. It’s native!
Forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia) Forsythia is the traditional first-flowering plant in the spring. Hardy plants, their bright yellow blooms can catch your eye anywhere. There are new cultivars out.
Quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) In mid spring, you’ll find these shrubs covered with flowers. There are several cultivars and you may see white-flowering plants (‘Jet Trails’), red-flowering plants (‘Texas Scarlet’) or even large, double, fluffy, peach-pink flowers (‘Cameo’). After the show, this plant tends to fade into the background, but it’s a great native addition.
Korean Spice Viburnum (Viburnum carlesii) Korean spice viburnum blooms in late April with blooms that are pink/red while they are still in buds, opening to white flowers that are each a half inch wide. The flowers are presented on dense 2-3 inch groupings called cymes (semi-snowball) and very pleasantly fragrant. And luck of all luck, they have nice, clean leaves in the summer and great fall color. Can’t beat that in a multi-season shrub.
Flowering Almond (Prunus glandulosa) Here’s a small plant that grows well in full sun and its lovely. Flowering almond, particularly the cultivar ‘Rosea Plena’ has tons of pink flowers (double—lots of petals). Some cultivars have white flowers, and all present in mid to late spring.
Shadblow Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis) A multi-season-interest plant, serviceberry offers white flowers on 2-3 inch long inflorescences in April, which leads to sweet, juicy black fruit in the summer. Some plants can also have decent fall color (yellow with hints of orange and red). Serviceberry grows by suckering so it’s perhaps not a great choice for a small yard.
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris). The beautiful purple flowers (many, many colors are available, but purple is most common) are wonderfully fragrant in most of spring. They may only bloom for 2 weeks, but man those 2 weeks are worth having a lilac in your garden! Takes me straight back to my childhood.
Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) An adaptable species, this plant is known for long-lasting black fruit in the fall and wine-red fall color. Spring flowers are white, presented in groups of 9-20 resulting in 1 to 1.5 inch groupings covering the plant in May. This species can spread and colonize large areas, which makes for a striking mass effect in the spring. Small plant (under 5 feet) thrives in part shade to full sun.
Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius) Fans of mock orange are serious about their use in the landscape. These plants can take care of themselves and they’ll reward you every May/June with white, fragrant flowers that are 1 to 1.5 inches wide.
Siberian Peashrub (Caragana arborescens) Granted, this is a great shrub for harsh sites (poor soils, drought, alkaline soil, cold, wind), but it’s unusual and doesn’t take much care. Leaves are pea-green and emerge with the yellow flowers in May. Later in the summer the fruit of the flowers, a narrow pod, makes a popping sound when it opens.
Remember, plants with more than one season of interest are like hitting the landscape jackpot. So, if you’ve chosen one of these plants because you love the flowers in the spring, just be aware that it may need to fade into the background for the rest of the year. Having said that, plants that usher in the new season are anticipated, loved and enjoyed. Make sure you’ve got some of these in your neighborhood for a dose of early spring joy.
This was adapted from Horticulture Newsletter – Cheryl Boyer – Kansas Extension. All plants listed in this article are native species of Indiana.
Read the original article posted in the Purdue Landscape Report April 2025 Newsletter: Top 10 Spring Flowering Shrubs.
Subscribe and receive the newsletter: Purdue Landscape Report Newsletter.
Resources:
Spring Tree Preparations, Purdue Extension Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR) Got Nature? Blog
Celebrate Pollinator Week with Flowers of June Tour, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Tracking the Bloom, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Indiana’s Native Orchids, Indiana Forestry & Woodlands Association (IFWOA) Webinar
Wildflowers and Ferns of Indiana Forests: A Field Guide, Google Books
ID That Tree Spring Bloom Edition: Bladdernut, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
ID That Tree, Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube playlist
Alternative Options for Invasive Landscape Plants (pdf), Purdue Extension – Purdue Horticulture and Landscape Architecture
Landscape Uses of Native Plants, Indiana Native Plant Society
Find an Arborist video, Trees are Good-International Society of Arboriculture (ISA)
Tree Installation: Process and Practices, The Education Store, Purdue Extension resource center
Tree Planting Part 1: Choosing a Tree video, Purdue Extension
Tree Wound and Healing, Got Nature? Blog, Purdue Extension – FNR
Shrubs and Woody Vines of Indiana and the Midwest, Purdue University Press
Ask an Expert: Tree Selection and Planting, Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube playlist
Recommended Indiana-native Plants for Attracting Pollinators (pdf), Purdue Extension – Entomology
Gardening for Pollinators, Purdue Garden Articles
Subscribe Purdue Extension-FNR YouTube Channel
Amanda Bailey, Extension Educator – Ag and Natural Resources
Purdue Extension – Warrick County
I seem to be finding Kirtland’s snakes as I am cleaning my gardens. There seems to be an increase of grubs, beetles and worms, but I have not seen the small lizards yet. We have an abundance of chipmunks. Is there something I can do to discourage the snakes from taking up residency in my yard?
Many people have questions about snakes, and this post addresses the two most common – what is it and what can I do? The answer to the latter is, in part, related to the first, so I’ll address that one first. Indiana is home to a diversity of snake species. Identifying snakes to species can be tricky. First, geographic location often can easily differentiate among similar species or subspecies. Check the distribution map of the species in question and that of similar species. This may not resolve all issues since the distribution of similar species often overlap, distribution maps are not 100 percent accurate (i.e., they are a “best guess”) and some species and subspecies share similar characteristics where their ranges overlap. Second, scale configuration and appearance differs among some groups of species. For snakes, the texture of the body scales (keeled or smooth) or the presence/absence of a divided anal plate (the large scale that covers the cloacal opening) are key. Finally, physical characteristics including size, color and pattern can be used. For some species, conclusive identification is easier with the specimen in hand, although handling venomous species (which are rare in Indiana) is not recommended. With practice, one can become quite adept at identifying all of them.

DeKay’s Brownsnake – This species is a small chestnut to dark brown snake averaging 25-30 centimeters in length. The belly is cream to pink. It has two rows of dark spots along the back that fade toward the tail. Dark bars may connect the dorsal spots, giving the impression of a ladder-like pattern. The area within this pattern is usually lighter in color than the sides, often giving the impression of a central stripe.
Kirtland’s snakes referenced in the homeowner’s question are endangered in Indiana. They are generally found near or along the margins of water bodies, but they can also be found in some urban areas on occasion. Due to these facts and since Kirtland’s snakes are generally quite secretive in behavior, this homeowner’s garden visitors are likely another species. Common garden visitors in Indiana include DeKay’s Brown snake (pictured above) or Eastern Gartersnake. Red-bellied Snakes (pictured below) have a pinkish-red belly similar to Kirtland’s snake. They are more of a woodland species, but it could be a possibility. All of these snakes can eat slugs and other garden pests.
Is there something homeowners can do to discourage snakes from taking up residency in their yards and around their homes? There really is no foolproof method to discourage snakes from utilizing a property. Reducing mulch layer thickness; removing brush piles, rock piles or other refuse; and keeping vegetation low are all steps that may help. Keep in mind that this may also reduce use of your property by wildlife you desire. There have been some repellents developed for snakes, but research results on their effectiveness have been mixed at best. In general, you should be wary of repellents that promise to keep animals out of an area. Lastly, there is plastic mesh fencing that you can purchase. Fencing can be used to exclude animals from small areas – it is generally cost-prohibitive for larger areas, and I am not aware of studies that test the effectiveness of fencing for snakes. Snake fencing is generally designed to exclude larger venomous snakes as opposed to the typical garden species that can be quite small. Snakes can also get stuck and die in mesh fences when their head fits through but the body gets stuck. The scales “catch” the mesh when the snake attempts to back out. Mesh fencing is also susceptible to damage from trimmers and falling limbs, and rabbits and rodents can chew holes in it. Thus, regular inspection and maintenance is required to maintain its function.

The Red-bellied Snake (18-25 cm) has both a brown and gray color phase. The two black lines along the length of its back may appear similar to the dark spots along the back of the DeKay’s Brownsnake (Storeria dekayi), but lack the crossbars. The belly has a distinctive bright pink or red coloration for which the species was named. Three light blotches may be visible behind the head on the neck.
Remember, while many folks are afraid of snakes or don’t want them around, the vast majority of species are harmless and can actually help homeowners by preying upon animals that actually are a nuisance and cause damage. Before taking any action, consider their benefits to you and how your actions affect other wildlife that call your yard home.
Resources
Snakes and Lizards of Indiana, The Education Store, Purdue Extension’s resource center
Snakes of the Central and Northeastern United States, The Education Store
Snakes of Indiana, The Education Store
Indiana Amphibian and Reptile ID Package (4 softcover books), The Education Store
Reptiles: Turtles, Snakes, and Lizards, Purdue Nature of Teaching Website
Ask An Expert, Playlist, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources YouTube channel
A Moment in the Wild: Eastern Hognose, Purdue Extension – FNR Video
A Moment in the Wild: Eastern Kingsnake, Purdue Extension – FNR Video
A Moment in the Wild: Racer, Purdue Extension – FNR Video
Brian MacGowan, Extension Wildlife Specialist
Department of Forestry and Natural Resources, Purdue University

Figure 1. A rain garden in downtown Lafayette captures runoff from nearby roads and sidewalks, slowing and filtering water before it enters the stormwater system. Credit: Amy Thompson, Purdue University.
Purdue Landscape Report: Rainscaping is the practice of designing landscapes to capture, absorb, and use rainwater where it falls. Rather than sending water off-site through storm drains, the water slows down, spreads across the landscape, and soaks into the soil.
In Indiana, spring often brings intense rain events that can quickly overwhelm drainage systems, soils, and rivers. Rainscaping offers a different approach. Instead of treating rainwater as something to get rid of, it becomes a valuable resource that benefits both the landscape and the environment.
Why Rainscaping Matters
Across the Midwest, rainfall is becoming less predictable, with more intense storms delivering large amounts of water in a short period of time. Many landscapes are not designed to absorb this volume quickly. Compacted soils, large areas of turf, and paved surfaces all contribute to rapid runoff of soil, nutrients, and pollutants into nearby waterways.
With rainscaping, the goal is to keep water on-site and allow it to infiltrate slowly (Fig. 1). As the water moves through the soil, it not only irrigates the landscape, but it’s filtered, which reduces runoff, improves water quality, and eases the burden on stormwater systems.
How Rainscaping Works
The principle of rainscaping is simple: slow water down and give it time to soak in. This can be achieved in a variety of ways depending on the site conditions. The right approach depends on how water moves through your landscape.

Figure 2. Water infiltrates into a rain garden in Bloomington following an intense rain event, demonstrating how these systems manage excess runoff from the nearby parking lot. Credit: Amy Thompson, Purdue University.

Figure 3. A bioswale outside Purdue’s Horticulture building captures and directs runoff from downspouts before entering the stormwater system. Credit: John Orick, Purdue University.
The most common method for slowing runoff is with a rain garden, which is a shallow depression planted with species that can tolerate both wet and dry conditions (Fig. 2). The rain garden holds water after a storm and allows it to infiltrate within a day or two. Species that tolerate “wet feet” are planted in the bottom of the basin while drought tolerant species are planted at the top of the slope.
Other landscapes may be better suited for bioswales, particularly sloped areas where water naturally flows across the site (Fig. 3). Bioswales are shallow channels that slow and direct water, allowing it to infiltrate as it moves. As runoff passes through the soil and plant roots, sediment and pollutants are filtered out.

Figure 4. Rain gardens can be designed to manage water effectively while adding visual interest to the landscape. Credit: Karen Mitchell, Purdue University.
Getting Started with Rainscaping
Rainscaping does not require a complete redesign of the landscape, and the first step is simple observation. Spring is an ideal time to evaluate your site, especially during intense rain events. Observe how rainwater moves off hard surfaces, out of downspouts, across the landscape, and into storm drains. These observations will often point directly to areas for improvement and potential locations for rainscaping.
Avoid placing rain gardens in areas that remain saturated for several days after a storm, as this indicates a slow infiltration rate. Instead, focus on capturing water “upstream,” where it can soak in before reaching problem areas.
Once potential locations are identified, further site evaluation is needed. Estimate the amount of runoff entering the area and perform a simple infiltration test to determine the appropriate size and depth needed to handle larger rain events.
Plant species that tolerate both wet and dry conditions are essential, as these areas regularly cycle between extremes. Many plants native to Indiana are well adapted to these conditions, including purple coneflower, Joe-Pye weed, and prairie dropseed. By selecting species with varying heights, textures, and bloom times, these gardens can be both functional and visually appealing (Fig. 4).
Rainscaping is a practical approach to managing water in the landscape. By slowing runoff and encouraging infiltration, it reduces common problems while supporting healthier landscapes and more resilient ecosystems.
To learn more, the Purdue Rainscaping Education Program provides training and resources on planning, installation, and maintenance of rain gardens.
View the original article on the Purdue Landscape Report website: Rainscaping: Turning Water Problems into Sustainable Solutions.
Subscribe and receive the newsletter: Purdue Landscape Report Newsletter.
Resources:
What is Rainscaping? Purdue Rainscaping Education Program Video, Purdue Extension
Q&A About Drainage Water Recycling for the Midwest, The Education Store, Purdue Extension resource center
Rainscaping Playlist, Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources (FNR) YouTube Channel
Ask an Expert: Rainscaping, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Rain Gardens Go with the Flow, Indiana Yard and Garden, Purdue Horticulture
Become a Purdue Master Gardener, The Education Store
Master Gardeners Program
Plan Today For Tomorrow’s Flood, The Education Store
Karen Mitchell, Consumer Horticulture Extension Specialist
Purdue Horticulture & Landscape Architecture
The Hardwood Tree Improvement & Regeneration Center (HTIRC) continues to share top forest research as scientists, experts and partners further the mission of tree improvement, management, and protection of hardwood forests. The most recent HTIRC Annual Report is now available and includes research, personnel and outreach news:
If you would like to subscribe and receive the e-newsletter visit HTIRC e-Newsletter.
The mission of the HTIRC is to advance the science and application of tree improvement, management, and protection of hardwood forests, with emphasis in the Central Hardwood Forest Region (CHFR). They seek to develop research and technology-transfer programs that provide knowledge focused on the establishment and maintenance of sustainable, genetically diverse native forests and the development of highly productive woodlands that provide a wide array of products and services.
Other resources:
Forestry & Natural Resources
Tropical HTIRC
An Introduction to Trees of Indiana, The Education Store, Purdue Extension resource center
Native Trees of the Midwest, The Education Store
Shrubs and Woody Vines of Indiana and the Midwest, The Education Store
ID That Tree, Playlist, Subscribe to Purdue Extension – Forestry and Natural Resources YouTube Channel
A Woodland Management Moment, Playlist, Purdue Extension – FNR YouTube Channel
Investing in Indiana Woodlands, The Education Store
Forest Improvement Handbook, The Education Store
Finding help from a professional forester, Indiana Forestry & Woodland Owners Association
District Forester, Indiana DNR Division of Forestry, for over 10 acres of woodlands
Directory of Professional Foresters, Indiana Forestry & Woodland Owners Association (IFWOA)
Matthew Ginzel, Professor and Director of HTIRC
Purdue Entomology
Purdue University Department of Forestry and Natural Resources
Hardwood Tree Improvement and Regeneration Center (HTIRC)