Q: We have had three English walnut trees for at least 20 years. In those years, we have had about 4 bushels of nuts from them, except for the last four years. Now, we have not had even one nut. I don’t know why.
We also have pecan trees. In the last four years, they have had lots of nuts, but the nuts are dried out and no good. What is wrong with them? – Marge Litmer, Batesville, Ind.
A: It sounds like your trees are trying to drive you nuts. (Sorry. I couldn’t resist!)
The last two years were tough ones for nut production. Last year, the female buds on English walnuts were frosted. Last year and the year before were cool and wet during pollination time, making it tricky for the pollen to travel through the air. A lack of pollination will cause a pecan to form an empty nut, which is what you’re seeing.
Perhaps this year will be kinder to you and your trees. In the meantime, fertilize properly. In 20 years, the trees have probably depleted the nutrients in the soil. Add 1 to 4 pounds of 10-10-10 per inch of trunk diameter in February or March over the entire root zone of the tree.
Q: I have several bulbs planted throughout my yard. I would like to transplant them to a different location in my yard. Is there a special time or way in which these bulbs could be transplanted, or would you not suggest this at all? – Karen Snyder, Edwardsport, Ind.
A: Enjoy the flowers this spring, then move them when the foliage begins to yellow and wither. This might be as late as June for daffodils. Dig up the bulbs with a spade. Be careful not to slice through any of the bulbs in the process. You can remove any bulblets (they look like little baby bulbs hanging onto the mother bulb) and replant them in the new location with the larger bulbs. It may take a year or two for the small bulbs to gather up enough strength to flower, so be patient. Make sure you plant the bulbs at the proper depth. Daffodils should be planted 6 inches deep, tulips 8 inches, and crocus 3 inches. For planting depths of other flowering bulbs, ask your county Extension office for “Flowering Bulbs,” HO-86A.
Q: How do you get poinsettias to bloom again the following year? – Mrs. Joe Betz, Schnellville, Ind.
A: Cut back on watering as the leaves begin to fall, until the soil becomes completely dry. The plant is then dormant and should be stored in a cool, dark location at about 50 F. Water only enough to keep the stem of the plant from shriveling, but not enough to promote growth.
Repot the plant when new growth begins in about midspring and place it near a sunny, south-facing window at 70-75 F. Fertilize with 10-10-10 or 5-10-5, following label directions.
Poinsettias can be placed outdoors for the summer, but make sure you bring them back in before temperatures dip below 55 F (usually around the end of August). To bring poinsettia back into bloom, keep it in complete darkness for at least 15 hours each night for 10 weeks. Even a dimly lit lamp at night is enough to prevent flower initiation. Place it in a dark closet from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m., for example, and avoid opening the door! Give it a sunny location during the day. This treatment can be discontinued once the bracts begin to show good color.